New 230V outlets..switched?

[Benson]

1. As long as I'm having an electrician wire 230V outlets, wouldn't it be desireable to have them switched, so I could change blades, etc., without unplugging the equipment?

[Frank Ketchum]

I guess, if you don't want to just throw the circuit breaker. You can if you want to, just make sure that the switch being used disconnects BOTH hot leads and not just one and that it can handle the current load of the circuit as well.

Frank

[Mike in Idaho]

This is probably a silly response, but when I'm sticking my hand where it could easily be turned into ground hamburger or sliced ham, I think I'd have a happier feeling about it seeing a cable unplugged vs. a switch that's up, or was it down, or...you get the idea :)

Mike

[DJ Delorie]

If you don't trust the switch on the tool, why would you trust the switch on the wall?

[gabriel]

Well, I think it is more a question of how do you know the device has no juice? Some people prefer the unplug method because you can visually check...

There was a recent question here on having a lighted switch that had two lights, one for when the switch was on and another of a different color for when it was off (that way you don't accidentally fry/butcher yourself if the light bulb for "on" went out). I have also seen in a book a tip about tying a short piece of rope/cord between the blade change tool and the plug from the machine. That way you cannot possibly use the tool unless you first unplug the machine.

Anyway, it's all about personalities I think. For me the unlpug method works, but other people might want another way to assure the power's off.

[Toller]

You can; just make sure it is a double pole switch rated for the amperage involved.

I put one on my DC to avoid having to get back there. Like all the other replies you got, I like to unplug my TS. You can't be too careful.

(breakers should not be used as switches unless they are designed for that application, which is unlikely.)

[DexAZ]

When I change a blade, I _really_ want to see that cable and plug laying on the top of the tool. Then I know for sure it is safe to work on the blade.

Have your electrician place the new 230 outlet where it is real easy to get at.

DexAZ

[Eric Johnson]

I had my planer hardwired to an approved disconnect switch for a while. I Never got over the uneasiness when working on the knives and not seeing where the end of the cord was. Take the recommendation of putting the outlet in a convenient location and pull the plug.

EJ

[Leon]

Would a 2 walks over to the switch be less trouble than bending over and unplugging the tool?

[Russell Shigeoka]

This is not a good idea. Instead have the 220v outlet on the wall, and then screw another 220v outlet onto the side of your tablesaw. The outlet on your TS has a 220V plug coming out of it to plug into the wall. Then plug your TS into the outlet on the side of your TS.

Aloha, Russell

[Leon]

How is that different or better than just plugging the saw into an extension cord?

[Bob Flint]

That's very dangerous... but if you must use a switch, use a good pull-arm knife switch type in a box, not just some cheap crap wall switch. Crap breaks... you want a positive break in the circuit, not a toggle spring waiting to zap you!! And wire the lights on another breaker!

I put an outlet over my saw, its cheap and with my poor memory, saves body parts...

The worst feeling you can have is finding current in a machine you were sure was dead!! Oops is not a good word when you are working...

PS There has been a ton of electrical questions here, for the record - its 120/240 volts... all those 110, 115, 117,

220, 230 references are out of date.

also, 208 refers to 3 phase industrial power, home current is single phase, center tapped 240. (120+120)

Bob IBEW

[Roy Smith]

Most circuit breakers are not designed for high duty-cycle operation. Turn a circuit breaker on and off all the time like it was a switch and you'll probably wear it out after not too long.

[Leon]

Actually I worked at a company that used circuit breakers to turn off the shop lights and the compressors. Never recall a breaker failing in the 10 years that I worked there.

[Al Reid]

Those are usually "SWD" switching duty circuit breakers. Unless they are listed for switching duty, they are not supposed to be used as such.

[Ed Clarke]

I have what you want right here on the table next to my computer. It's a "Square D Pull-Out Disconnect Switch". The one that I have is 30 amp fusible model FP221R, but you can get them without fuses.

There's a small bar with a pull tab on it inside an electrical box. Put the bar in one way and there's no electrical contact. Put it in the other way and you're good to go. Put the bar in your pocket and nobody can turn it on while you're working... You can also lock the box.

This is usually used as an outdoor air conditioning disconnect. I plan to use this one on a jointer with a five horse motor on it ( 240V@27A ).

[Leon]

That very well may have been as there were no other switches.

[Lew Hodgett]

NO, not in my shop.

A plug and receptacle provides a visual disconnect means which a wall switch does not unless you equip it with a padlock fitting and padlock.

HTH

[ATP]

Extension cords are not to be used "in place of fixed wiring"- so unless it's a portable saw temporarily set up, it's a code violation. Using a home made extension cord to connect the 220V receptacle by the TS to the receptacle on the wall would also be a violation.

[Tom]

That is the correct answer! Combines the comvenience of a switch with the safety of true current interruption! Switches can fail in such a way that they pass current unexpectedly, but this unit is fail safe. I would still remove the bar when changing blades. I think we humans need a strong visual key (like the plug laying on the floor, or the bar sitting on the work surface) to reinforce our safety habits over the many hours in the company of tools that can hurt us. All it takes is one mistake...

Tom M.