Need some ideas on modifying an old Drill Press

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I have an old Craftsman Drill Press ( http://www.owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id 3 ). It a great tool but has one problem, there is no crank to raise and lower the table, you lossen the clamp and slide it up and down the shaft. This is cumbersome at best. So, I wanted to see if anybody had any ideas on what I could rig up to raise and lower it mechanically. I have a few but I don't want to bias the thought process.
The Craftsman model number is 103.23141.
Thanks, Jim
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Oh, that link is just an example, that particular one isn't my drill.
-Jim
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Perhaps replacement parts for a similar size in a Delta or other cheap brand unit to replace the table, with crank and gear rack?
I believe the gear rack is set into a key on the back of the shaft though.
I have an old Craftsman Drill Press ( http://www.owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id 3 ). It a great tool but has one problem, there is no crank to raise and lower the table, you lossen the clamp and slide it up and down the shaft. This is cumbersome at best. So, I wanted to see if anybody had any ideas on what I could rig up to raise and lower it mechanically. I have a few but I don't want to bias the thought process.
The Craftsman model number is 103.23141.
Thanks, Jim
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Sorry about my first effort. As you can read I have not a bit of brain between my ears. What I believe changes with each injection of drugs. You need help? I need it more than anyone!
Read my history and send alms! http://groups.google.com/group/alt.solar.photovoltaic/msg/a57dda4e6757f15c?hl=en
_____________________________________________________________________
I have an old Craftsman Drill Press ( http://www.owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id 3 ). It a great tool but has one problem, there is no crank to raise and lower the table, you lossen the clamp and slide it up and down the shaft. This is cumbersome at best. So, I wanted to see if anybody had any ideas on what I could rig up to raise and lower it mechanically. I have a few but I don't want to bias the thought process.
The Craftsman model number is 103.23141.
Thanks, Jim
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As the group knows (except the troll's twelve sock puppets profess) this was not my post.
Somebody got his itsy bitsy feelings hurt when I disagreed...LOL
Since the troll modifies the headers to match most of mine readers will have to look for content and just ignore attack style garbage from this Usenet terrorist. He frequents many groups and attempts to bring them to a standstill.
Thanks for all your understanding and co-operation. You too Wayne, Taz, hopper, LectronNuisance, daestrom etc..
I have an old Craftsman Drill Press ( http://www.owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id 3 ). It a great tool but has one problem, there is no crank to raise and lower the table, you lossen the clamp and slide it up and down the shaft. This is cumbersome at best. So, I wanted to see if anybody had any ideas on what I could rig up to raise and lower it mechanically. I have a few but I don't want to bias the thought process.
The Craftsman model number is 103.23141.
Thanks, Jim
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wrote:

Obviously, the biggest problem here is your complete inability to comprehend what top posting is or you're just looking to irritate people. Either way, all you're really doing it developing a reputation for trolling.
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There will be so many sock puppets disappear here this group will tic like a clock when that account gets closed too.
Crybaby.
wrote:

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wrote:

Thank you. You've aptly answered the question as to whether you're trolling or not. And, you're playing stupid is just as revealing.
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Christ, you are one whiney son of a bitch. The original poster had a legitimate question and this your best? Who elected you the posting police? Grow the fuck up.
wrote:

--- ---
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My apologies for the clone attacks here. These look like my headers but are not my posts.
Some can't take disagreement...I guess **SIGH**
Christ, you are one whiney son of a bitch. The original poster had a legitimate question and this your best? Who elected you the posting police? Grow the fuck up.
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My apologies for any mixup in what is what. I have been very very bad for a very long time losing all sense of what is right and wrong. In fact I do think I am quite insane, actually. These look like my headers but are not my posts.
Some can't take me well...I guess **SIGH**
Christ, you are one whiney son of a bitch. The original poster had a legitimate question and this your best? Who elected you the posting police? Grow the fuck up.
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wrote:

forte-easynews!core-iad-easynews!news-in-02-iad.easynews.com!news.easynews.com!s03-b24.iad!npeersf01.iad.highwinds-media.com!npeer01.iad.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!post01.iad.highwinds-media.com!newsfe16.iad.POSTED!ec4ccacd!not-for-mail
By the way, all your headers are exactly the same barring a few inconsequential differences.
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jtpr wrote:

1. Make a sizeable cam w/lever that you can clamp to column below the table.
2. Bottle jack.
--

dadiOH
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dadiOH wrote:

3. Mount table; place base on lift... :)
--


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wrote the following:

Uh, oh! Now you did it, DadiOH! "Bottle jack" my ass!
OK, so first you dig the pit for the table hydraulics and the electical trench.
Then you install the 240v circuit to the patio.
Now install the hydraulic transmission lift in the pit and tie it in to the Enerpac. Dig in and fasten your guide tubes for the adjustable rectangular table and cement them in. Now install the perimeter flooring supports.
Now run the ram up and down several times to get the feel of it. While it's up, install the pit cover flooring. Now install your table on the fully adjustable saddle.
There you are, a perfectly level, fully adjustable table with 3 legs: 2 guides and a ram. The guides and ram are centered under the table to provide the maximum legroom.
Range is 5" to 42" for holding limbo sticks or stand-up drinkfests. Cost is a mere $11,538.47 and can be installed in under a month.
Did I mention that I sell these units? Got my number?
Call now and receive an extra keyfob remote at no extra charge!
Get one for each member of your remote family!
-- Peace of mind is that mental condition in which you have accepted the worst. -- Lin Yutang
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*snip*

Ooh! A extra keyfob! I want one! Me Me Me! It's sooooooooooooooo worth the $11,538.47 for the extra keyfob!
The OP could just use a forklift. Drive it up behind the drill press, and lay a board across. Voila! Instant adjustable table.
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

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jtpr wrote:

There was a guy here some years ago that built a contraption with 3 pulleys, some cable, and a bungee cord. I can't remember who it was or where to find the photo that he supplied. Any way here's a description (?): Anchor the cable to the table (in back of the post), run it up to a pulley on the drill press bracket, then down to another pulley on the base, up to another pulley on the motor bracket, then down to attach the bungee cord which is attached to the base. Clear? :-)
I have a 103.23171 model and built one of these things. It does not replace a crank but it helps.
If you have specific questions, email me by removing the mahalo.
    mahalo,     jo4hn
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That was probably me and I posted pictures on the binaries woodworking site too. That worked pretty well until I put a heavy woodworking table on the drill press then it go hard to handle again. Also the bungees stretch over time making periodic replacement necessary.
I saw a separate post with pictures of a solution using a simple trailer tongue jack. The fellow mounted the jack beneath the table on a block that put the jacing range within the usual adjustment range for the table. He also kept a second block near by for higher adjustments. This gets you closer to the ease of a cranking table adjustment and it won't drop if you let go.
RonB
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Maybe a primitive jack? Put a sliding collar below the casting, to take the thrust; engage the collar with a fork, tines going into a ladder-like rack. Loosen the table, and lever it up or down with the fork. Tighten the table to reposition the fork to the next rack position...
One can also use a DC gearmotor with a threaded rod; the gearmotor output, instead of a shaft coupling, is a nut that moves the threaded rod up and down. It's a tad slow, though.
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http://www.owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id 3
Attach a cable to the table and run it over a pulley attached under the drill head to a counterweight behind the post. Art
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