I just bought the Delta 36-600 table saw at Lowe's today for $209.00, it was
a floor model and was missing the miter gauge.
I would be interested in finding a good aftermarket miter -- any
thanks in advance,
Haven't come across too many other people that have a 36-600. Mine
was a gift when I first started woodworking. As I got more into the
hobby, I kept considering getting a better saw, but I just can't
justify it. I've never had problems making straight cuts with it. I
did put it in a mobile cabinet. That stand took up too much space.
Anyway, I have the Incra Mitre 1000 and have been very happy with it.
Easy to set and seems to be dead on accurate.
One thing I should mention (that most people here won't like), is that
the blade gaurd/splitter on the 36-600,IMO, is at best a hazard, at
worst an accident waiting to happen. Because it doesn't mount to the
saw through the throat plate like most table saws, it flexes very
easily. I used mine until the first time the anti-kick back prawls
hit the blade.
I took off the guard/splitter, made my own insert plates, and made my
Is the 36-600 similar to the TS-350? Sounds like a similar TS with the
cast iron extensions, but the TS-350 has an induction motor. Lowes is
clearing those out and I wondered if it was a good saw for a beginner
for the price.
It didn't come with the guard,, it was missing,,, any way you can post a
picture of what you came up with. I have never used a saw with a
guard/splitter before! But as I get older and now have children,, I take
safety a bit more seriously!
On another note,,,
I wonder if anyone has a blown motor for one of these,,, I hear it may be
common,,, I would like to see if I can modify the saw for an external
motor,, just use the junk motor carcass for the arbor.
I've had this saw for about 2 years now and have had no problems
with the motor (other than being very loud). Most of the projects
that I have done were with 4/4 figured maple and cocobolo and the saw
has never had a problem cutting through. I have had 1 kickback event
(entirely my fault). This is a pretty good saw to start with to see
if woodworking is for you. This saw has served me well but I am ready
to upgrade to something larger. If you were in the Atlanta area, I
would sell you mine for $100 and you would have a spare motor, fence,
Enjoy the saw,
The Guard is a joke, the splitter is only useful when ripping.
I only use it when ripping lengths of wood. It's not needed when
crosscutting or cutting sheet goods. I've never had a kickback, but
my fence has been "upgraded" with additional supports and careful
Make certain that the little star clips holding the pawls onto the
riving blade are tight enough to prevent the pawls from springing
forward past the limiter roll pin and hitting the blade - a definite
The motors often fail, primarily because of improper varnishing of the
motor windings. The new TS-400 version of this saw really sucks. It
has a jackshaft motor, basically a hand-held circular saw motor, and
this "new" (I.E. - cheap) motor is being supplied to replace failures
on older in-warranty 36-600s.
I own a 36-600, due to be replaced very soon, and have overhauled and
rewound the original motor in order to retain the long arbor shaft
design of the original motor. Delta sent the new design for a failure
under warranty, and it was so bad, I sent it back. They claim the
original design is NLS.
It sounds like a jet engine, the 28" fence is woefully inadequate, and
I have gone through 2 belts and a motor. Plus all the tweaking needed
to produce acceptable cuts. But it has ripped 720 linear feet of 8/4
southern yellow pine in one session, and continues to provide useful
One other drawback to this saw you might not be aware of is that the
arbor is of insufficient diameter beyond 1/4" or so to properly hold a
stacked dado set. I use a Freud Super 8" and first outer blade and
chipper fit OK, but the remaining blades fit loosely on the shaft, and
will cause severe vibration and rough dados. I have to shim the outer
blades when installing in order to properly use a stacked dado. You
can use masking tape in a pinch, about 2 layers wrapped around the
arbor usually works. It is time consuming, but the only way to avoid
bad cuts and accelerated motor destruction from excessive vibration.
Retrofitting the saw with another motor is basically impractical.
Remember that the motor must rotate with the arbor, and this is no
small feat of DIY engineering that upsets the geometry of the saw.
Plus the plastic arbor tilt adjustment nut will break if subjected to
additional weight of an induction motor and related mounting
I wish I had spent the additional money for a contractor saw with a
longer/better fence, but it was the first tool I aquired, and it has
worked OK for about 3 years. I have since accumulated a 13" planer,
nice 6" joiner, dust collector, drill press, etc, etc.
It is truly a disease....
Just in case you are still using google groups. An internet search brought
me to this site. I was given a 36-600, and I realize it's a problematic too
l, but poverty impells me to make the attempt to use it for some projects.
Anyway, there is no insert for the saw, and the part is now obsolete. I wou
ld be extremely grateful to you if you could give me some information about
what you did to make yours, what sort of materials, and any other insights
from your experience with it, or the saw in general.
Thanks, if you are still around; if not, buon viagi.
On Tuesday, August 24, 2004 6:20:28 AM UTC-7, Woodchuck34 wrote:
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