Need Help With This Cut - Boxcar-Top-2w.jpg (0/1)

I know this is a very dangerous cut and have had some kickbacks, damn they hurt my hands.
I am looking for a solution for making this cut with much less danger. I haven't been able to come up with anything that will work.
I want to be able to push it through while keeping my hands relatively safe from the board, should a kickback occur.
I'll build any jig that works!
Thanks for any help or ideas.
--
http//:www.sugarbearswoodworks.com

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1) you can't post binaries (pictures) here. put them on your webpage and post a link
2) your web page should be http:// not //: so it looks like http://www.sugarbearswoodworks.com
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Maybe this pic will work.

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You still haven't figured it out. rec.woodworking is not a binary group. You can't post pictures here.
Try posting the picture to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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Saw your pic on ABPW.
I had to make a similar cut many years ago - my solution was to use the radial arm saw setup in a rip configuration with the blade "way high". I used a test board to sneak up on my cut depth and passed the board through using plenty of feather boards for tension and a long push stick. Nibbled it away one kerf at a time. It was slow but safe and accurate. The first round of passes removed most of the waste wood. The finish pass was more fun - I tilted the blade so that it was perpendicular to the tangent of the curve. Cleanup was easy with a light sanding. I was cutting hard maple to make an airfoil steam bending jig for some balsa airplanes.
If you don't have access to a radial arm saw, maybe you could jig up your router in a similar manner.
Good luck!
Bruce

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