I just wasted a bunch of gas and time returning a Crown square that
wasn't "square". Two more samples were also out of whack.
I bought that brand because one I got 3 years ago is perfect (12"). I
want one with a thin blade like the Crown. Any suggestions for a
source? I use the Incra Guaranteed Square, but I want a thinner type
for marking wood.
Only thing that counts is square. Brand does not make them that way. Go
the Borg, get a flat edge to put them against and a light to squint into and
start blade to blade tests to find the one that is, and buy it.
Then don't drop it.
I do not know if this site qualifies for what you are looking for but these
tools ate very high quality and EXPENSIVE. They have about 13 squares.
That said, if you have not been to this site it will be fun for you to look
at. All are precision tools including the new $1500 hand planes.
I own one of their first commerative tools, a Squivel.
That's some pricey stuff--$100 marking knives...$575 planes...
(And here I thought LN was expensive.)
I have a couple of Lee Valley Engineer's Squares. They are not too
expensive and they guarantee tolerances within 0.001" per inch. They
come in a few sizes. I like them a lot. They also have some aluminum
squares with the same tolerances that go as large as 12".
I have seen a LOT of negativity about Crown tools in this NG, believe me.
The blade of that square you bought should, as well, be covered with some
kinda black dry gunk, rather than truly blued hard spring steel. For your
brass diamonds however, Joseph Marples will do the trick.
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 10:11:30 -0800, Enoch Root wrote:
I agree with the sentiment, but point out that OP seems to be using a
cabinetmaker's, rather than a carpenter's square. Wood stock and steel
blade, or similar. I have trued such a square with an Incra as reference.
It is far more tedious than truing a carpenter's square.
exactly. I was wondering what they were thinking when they suggested I
take a hammer to a Crown style (brass, wood and steel) square. Of
course you can adjust an all aluminum or steel one; I've done that
myself with a framing square.
How do you adjust a try square or cabinet makers square? I have a crown
square that is off. I went with an Incra - their great, but I would like
to get the crown up and going. Thanks!
Australopithecus scobis wrote:
On Mon, 14 Nov 2005 10:53:08 -0800, Joseph Connors
if you trust the incra and it is bigger than the other two, use it as
a reference square to true the others. if the incra isn't accurate or
is smaller in either leg than the others go buy an engineer's square
that is big enough. take your crowbar when you go- you'll need it.
set up a bright light, a jig to hold a small, fine sharpening stone at
90 degrees to a flad blade and a few hours worth of good music.
check the good square to the bad one with the bright light behind.
mark the points of contact with sharpie. remove sharpie marks with
small fine stone. repeat until the music ends, you fall asleep or you
can't get light between the blades anymore.
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