Need brand advice for squares

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I just wasted a bunch of gas and time returning a Crown square that wasn't "square". Two more samples were also out of whack.
I bought that brand because one I got 3 years ago is perfect (12"). I want one with a thin blade like the Crown. Any suggestions for a source? I use the Incra Guaranteed Square, but I want a thinner type for marking wood.
Dave
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Only thing that counts is square. Brand does not make them that way. Go the Borg, get a flat edge to put them against and a light to squint into and start blade to blade tests to find the one that is, and buy it.
Then don't drop it.
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George wrote:

style to the Crown. I'm looking for the same style as the Crown. Sorry I didn't make that clear.
Dave
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"David" wrote:

The square hasn't been invented that doesn't require a little "adjustment" from time to time.
A ball peen hammer and a center punch are the tools of the "adjustment" trade.
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

it for several years and it still is "right on". So is my 12" Crown.
I saw Norm using square similar in design to the Crown but it had 3 brass diamonds inlaid. Anyone know the brand?
Dave
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If you saw Norm use it LRod should know which one.
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Three Diamonds? That's mitsubishi!
David wrote:

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My most used squares, in order:
Starrett 6" combo Lee Valley Saddle Lee Valley 4" double Starrett 12" combo
I use them with pencils and striking knives.
Barry
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The Starretts will be perfect right out of the box. And pricy. I like them too.
Ba r r y wrote:

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I do not know if this site qualifies for what you are looking for but these tools ate very high quality and EXPENSIVE. They have about 13 squares. That said, if you have not been to this site it will be fun for you to look at. All are precision tools including the new $1500 hand planes. I own one of their first commerative tools, a Squivel.
http://www.bridgecitytools.com/pages_framework/frameset_stage.asp?primary=0&secondary=0&tertiary=-1
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Leon wrote:

http://www.bridgecitytools.com/pages_framework/frameset_stage.asp?primary=0&secondary=0&tertiary=-1
That's some pricey stuff--$100 marking knives...$575 planes... (And here I thought LN was expensive.)
dave
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Hi Dave,
I have a couple of Lee Valley Engineer's Squares. They are not too expensive and they guarantee tolerances within 0.001" per inch. They come in a few sizes. I like them a lot. They also have some aluminum squares with the same tolerances that go as large as 12".
Neil
link: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p2601&cat=1,42936,42941
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toolguy wrote:

$19 for the one I got yesterday that was out by more than a mm in 6 inches.
Dave
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I have seen a LOT of negativity about Crown tools in this NG, believe me. The blade of that square you bought should, as well, be covered with some kinda black dry gunk, rather than truly blued hard spring steel. For your brass diamonds however, Joseph Marples will do the trick.
--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
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David wrote:

Save yourself the money and true your current square yourself. You may not be able to get it to within 0.00063, but you should be able to get it pretty close (with a hammer.)
er
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On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 10:11:30 -0800, Enoch Root wrote:

I agree with the sentiment, but point out that OP seems to be using a cabinetmaker's, rather than a carpenter's square. Wood stock and steel blade, or similar. I have trued such a square with an Incra as reference. It is far more tedious than truing a carpenter's square.
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Australopithecus scobis wrote:

exactly. I was wondering what they were thinking when they suggested I take a hammer to a Crown style (brass, wood and steel) square. Of course you can adjust an all aluminum or steel one; I've done that myself with a framing square.
Dave
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How do you adjust a try square or cabinet makers square? I have a crown square that is off. I went with an Incra - their great, but I would like to get the crown up and going. Thanks!
Australopithecus scobis wrote:

--
Joseph Connors
The New Golden Rule:
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On Mon, 14 Nov 2005 10:53:08 -0800, Joseph Connors

if you trust the incra and it is bigger than the other two, use it as a reference square to true the others. if the incra isn't accurate or is smaller in either leg than the others go buy an engineer's square that is big enough. take your crowbar when you go- you'll need it.
set up a bright light, a jig to hold a small, fine sharpening stone at 90 degrees to a flad blade and a few hours worth of good music.
check the good square to the bad one with the bright light behind. mark the points of contact with sharpie. remove sharpie marks with small fine stone. repeat until the music ends, you fall asleep or you can't get light between the blades anymore.
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Thanks! Thats about what I was figuring on having to do, I was just hoping someone had a better (magical) way.
snipped-for-privacy@all.costs wrote:

--
Joseph Connors
The New Golden Rule:
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