Need an inexpensive folding outfeed table?

These things are pricey, with even the cheaper folding ones starting at +/- US$ 150, and many of them seem to be a bit fussy to install on different saws.
Having moved and reconfigured the shop, I needed something quick to get a job done, so here's my minimalist version, made from scraps and one ripped in half tubafour, that uses French cleats to attach to my Unisaw:
https://picasaweb.google.com/karlcaillouet/OutfeedTable #
You can add, as I did, folding legs brackets and levelers to get you started, bringing the price up to a whooping $25.
Although it works fine just as it is, eventually one would want to add aprons to stiffen the top and route dadoes for the miter gauge slide, etc.
Since it did the intended job admirably and with spades, I'll probably keep it and spiff it up a bit.
(And no, C-Less, Festool does not make one!)
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On 7/11/11 9:19 AM, Swingman wrote:

Love me some french cleat!!
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-MIKE-

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Yes, those extension miter slots were notably missing. Did you wax the wood?

I knew they didn't. How? Because you didn't yet have one.
-- Win first, Fight later.
--martial principle of the Samurai
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I would recommend using small clamps to clamp each end of the cleating boards. My outfeed table is screwed to the tablesaw, via angle iron, and occassionally it still moves laterally, misaligning the miter slots (1/32" is enough movement). I haven't figured out how/why it moves. My outfeed table is heavy: 2" thick, 4' deep, 6' long... (a work table originally from LSU physics lab - $20 for 4 tables at the State surplus auction).
Sonny
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On 7/11/11 12:51 PM, Sonny wrote:

Widen them. There's no reason for extension slots to be as narrow as the miter slots.
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On 7/11/2011 1:08 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Sonny,
I did drill a conveniently accessible screw hole on each table end just in case it had a tendency to push away from the table saw during use, but it doesn't, so I haven't bothered to screw it onto the mating cleat board.
Also angling the two legs slightly will have the same effect in precluding lateral movement in either direction, as well as using a 60/30 French cleat instead of a 45 degree (the drawing shows a 45 degree French cleat angle), but again, it has not been a problem in use.

Mike,
Absolutely, AAMOF, I'd already marked them out for routing ... at almost 1/4" wider per slot side ... just waiting until I feel like taking it off and getting covered in router crap, before I broke out the router.
Now that the project was picked up by the paint contractor this morning, I may do it this afternoon.
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On 7/11/2011 1:32 PM, Swingman wrote:

The new Festool router sucks up all the router crap. ;~)
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Don't know why I didn't realize that. Thanks.
Sonny <~~~~ chargrinned!
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On 7/11/2011 9:19 AM, Swingman wrote:

Now spray it with some She-lack and wax it! Look like it works.
If you put an apron horizontally on the back side of the saw and run the legs at an angle to set on the apron you can move the saw with out having to remove or readjust the out feed.
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On 7/11/2011 4:50 PM, Leon wrote:

Gave it some consideration but had two problems with that approach on this model Unisaw:
~ Interior DC sheet metal panels, and the location of the DC port, makes for difficult access to bolt on an apron, resulting in a very acute outfeed leg angle, which precludes desired outfeed table stability (you would need to add a third leg for stability, as Delta does in their commercial outfeed table).
~ My low assembly table, which I'm fond of and find indispensable for the way I work, would not then fit under the outfeed table.
The first could likely be solved with much more effort than I was willing to expend, but the second was the deal killer. :)
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On 7/11/2011 5:31 PM, Swingman wrote:

Gotcha!
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