Need a new TS rip blade.

[Morgans]

wrote

I don't understand a remark like that.

If you are not here to learn something new, they why are you here.

Unless you know-it-all already. I don't.

[krw]

I meant with the thin-kerf blade, where the dado > 2x the kerf.

Ah, I thought I was the only one who had to sneak up on joints. I thought you real woodworkers were perfect. ;-) Yes, the Kerf Maker helps a lot. I only wish it were a bit larger.

[krw]

Why am I not surprised?

I'm not here for your smug condescension.

Quite obviously.

[Jack Stein]

Who ARE those guys, anyway?

There are facts, and there are meaningless facts. Your minuscule fact is the latter in this instance.

[Jack Stein]

In other words, you never tried it.

My experience is exactly what Morgan says.

[krw]

No, IOW, he can go f*ck himself. Can't you read?

Hardly the point, but you can follow him.

[dhall987]

If you are in production mode or do a lot of woodworking then by all means have a saw for each task. For the rest of us a few compromises are in order. For me that means that a decent combo blade stays in my saw and does everything unless I have a pretty big rip or crosscut job to get done.Although I have a Forrest WWII, I usually have my Frued TK906 in the saw. If I am doing some serious ripping, either in volume or in thickness, I switch to a rip blade and the one you show is pretty decent. If I am doing a lot of fine cross cuts or working in good plywood I switch to an appropriate dedicated blade. From your description, you need a good combo blade. There are tons of opinions on here as to what is a good combo blade, so do a little research. If you like Frued, their site has some decent info, but beware that they have some good quality blades and some terribly crappy blades (i.e. any sold by Lowes) some look them up and order what you want. Amazon usually has decent prices on Frued blades.

On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 14:07:07 -0700 (PDT), jtpr wrote: