My week

My favorite, much more true and to the point:

"You get what your pay for!"

If you run a woodworking business and buy a Festool TS75 for $500. In five years time it will have been instrumental in making you a minimum of $200k. It has cost you thus far $4/month for unparalleled utility and reliability.

In another five, and ten, after that, it was paid for and you're still using a tool that has a lifetime of use left in it.

Try that with your HF tool ...

I have an Omer nailer, and a HF nailer of the same ilk ... vast difference in cost/quality, but one is disposable and the other will be working for my grandkids kids and won't leave me stranded on a job site

200 miles from the shop.

Your choice ... If wwing is a hobby, of course your YMWV.

Reply to
Swingman
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Correction: That's five inches and one and a half sixteenths, or $10/month.

Reply to
Swingman

Think Yugo vs. BMW

Both get you there but which is going to last and deliver the precision?

Additionally the HF tool has a regular price of $60 now and is on sale for $40.

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The Fein Multimaster can be had for $209 shipped and equipped with similar blades as the above tool.
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instead of the example you show of the Fein being over 13 times more expensive, it really is only 3 1/2 times more expensive with normal pricing.

I see your point, if you don't need a the features of a premium tool, get the cheapo one. But if you don't have time to deal with a tool that may waist your time the better quality is the better bet. Basically you get what you pay for.

Reply to
Leon

Crap! you are really leaving me behind with your fancy math, I'da thought

163/32's or maybe 129 and one third mm's.

Plain mm's

;~)

Reply to
Leon

The first Festool sander was bought for a particular need/use for a nasty (black) solid surface top. I made that one job pay for that sander... I didn't make a whole lot of net profit as a result, but I made out just fine with all the other tops afterwards. Also, that sander allowed me to be less apprehensive when I sold a darker coloured countertop, so my market widened somewhat. Aside from reliability and utility, there is capability; jobs you wouldn't otherwise tackle.

On that note, I just started a project. I will write about it over the next few days under a separate thread. It's quite mmmmm interesting. (Can you say OLD-ish building from 1890 which wants to be an Irish pub? The paint crew started on one of the two facades this Monday. )

Reply to
Robatoy

I'm not trying to defend the HF, as I have one and know what it is.... and would much prefer the Fein if it came down to it... but....

Since when is "normal pricing" relevant to anything. The only relevent price is what you can expect to pay for something. In the case of the HF, that's never higher that $35 bucks, because the thing is always on sale. You can walk in the door and ask for the latest coupon or ask them to match the website price if it's cheaper.

Drum equipment manufactures are notorious for having ridiculously, artificially inflated retail list prices. Cymbals, heads, etc., always have a sale price of 50% off list. I'm not going to pretend the normal price of a pair of sticks is 14 bucks, when I know they always sell for $7.

In the case of Fein, their quality speaks on its own. Being 3-1/2 or 6 times as expensive is irrelevant in the debate, to me, at least.

Reply to
-MIKE-

The Feins don't gum up with oak rust quite as fast.

Reply to
Robatoy

The metal mugs are about to disintegrate off of my oak snare drum. :-)

Reply to
-MIKE-

Just trying to compare apples to apples. While you can expect a discounted price on HF I wanted to show what HF has on their web site. The Fein goes on sale also.

The Fein was not $400 the HF was not $60. You can only make an educated comparison with data at hand.

Reply to
Leon

Maybe we should place an entry on wikipedia for "oak rust"??

Reply to
Josepi

Sorry, but I have given up trying to decipher your posting methods.... you just don't seem to want to fit in and that's okay.

Reply to
Robatoy

Oak rust don't hold a candle to Jummywood rust . . .

Reply to
J. Clarke

Must be a complex reader that is hard to use.

I can read any style just fine.

Reply to
Josepi

Is the candle wax put on before or after the stain?

In article , snipped-for-privacy@easynews.com says... Maybe we should place an entry on wikipedia for "oak rust"??

Reply to
Josepi

Certainly _neither_. Beemers are extremely overrated. I think of them as the Thompson's WaterSeal of Automobiles.

When Fein came out with them, they cost $400+. I hadn't checked the price since, so mea culpa. But with this month's sales, HF's is $29.95 and the Fein is still seven times more expensive, more if you have a 20% off coupon from HF, too.

I look for value. In most tools, ultimate performance isn't required. I'm still casually eyeing Makita's SP6000K when noone's looking. Why didn't Festool build in an anti-tilt lever for bevel cuts?

-- Know how to listen, and you will profit even from those who talk badly. -- Plutarch

Reply to
Larry Jaques

HAH! I've used my HF at least a dozen times seriously now, and I've yet to see one single granule of oak rust anywhere around it or on it. So there, Mr. Smartypants.

-- Know how to listen, and you will profit even from those who talk badly. -- Plutarch

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Anti-tilt lever?

Reply to
Leon

From their flyer:

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"Slide lever built into the saw base locks the saw to the guide rail to help support the saw while making bevel cuts."

-- Know how to listen, and you will profit even from those who talk badly. -- Plutarch

Reply to
Larry Jaques

From what I've read only:

The Makita needs it because it is prone to kickbacks as it does not have a riving knife; and I think the Makita might also cut a bit past 45 degrees (48?), which, both of these issues combined, would make it a necessity, IMO.

Neither Festool saw needs the "anti-tilt lever" for bevel cuts. I've done a few of these cuts in plywood and have no idea why one would be remotely necessary.

Reply to
Swingman

Your posts come through top posted, which in a longer post makes it tougher to read, and there's no clear quotation marks for the stuff you quoted. I don't understand the "I can read any style just fine" comment, unless you're saying, "Fuck you." I would think that you'd be interested in making it easier for other people to read. I'm sure it's just a simple setting that needs to be tweaked.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

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