My Resawing Needs Work!!!

[Leon]

One thing that REALLY turned me off with Laguna was the very pushy sales man.

I have heard about that problem but never witnessed that at all personally.

I did however start the process off with "I want to see the saw before even considering a purchase". Since you need to live near California to see the saws and or wait for a WW show to come around they knew it would be a couple of months before I purchased.

That said, I did not call until I was certain that I wanted to buy one and when I did call I dealt with one salesman. He and I agreed on a price, IIRC I got it for about $400 off reg pricing for everything I purchased. That price would be lowered if the WW show offered a better deal. It did not. So basically the conversations went on for 2 or 3 months. He never called me unless he was returning my call.

I also considered MiniMax and they are headquartered in Austin TX about 3 hours away from where I live. I talked to them make an appointment to see the saw of interest and they confirmed the appointment the day before.

The next day when I go there to look at their saw no one was aware I was coming and the only saw they had to show me was missing the guides.... The trip was a waste of time.

[CW]

Did you let them know how much of your time they wasted?

[Leon]

I did, and I also told them that this relationship was over.

[Larry Blanchard]

Yes, any medium/fine oil/water stone will work. The idea is that during the manufacturing process, a (possibly undetectable) burr is formed on one side thus forcing the blade in the opposite direction.

I've even seenis suggested that if that doesn't work, a little stoning on one side of the teeth might work - I haven't tried that one.

One addition to Leon's response:

Do this *very carefully* with the saw running :-).

[Steve Turner]

I'd qualify that by saying "with very minimal pressure". There is no such thing as a "negative" thrust bearing, meaning that there is nothing preventing the pressure you apply from forcing the blade forward on the drive wheels, possibly to the point where it hops right off and soils your underwear.

[Andy Dingley]

Try a _narrower_ blade.

The advice to go wide for a resaw blade is fine, until you've reached a blade cross-section that's now too much for the limits of your saw to adequately tension. If you're having problems with the fence's stability, then I doubt your saw is built to adequately tension a 1" blade (I know mine isn't!).

Thin resaw blades also tend to deflect backwards (still leaving a flat cut), where others might give you a barrel shaped resaw, that's really not what you want.

[Leon]

Try a _narrower_ blade.

The advice to go wide for a resaw blade is fine, until you've reached a blade cross-section that's now too much for the limits of your saw to adequately tension. If you're having problems with the fence's stability, then I doubt your saw is built to adequately tension a 1" blade (I know mine isn't!).

Thin resaw blades also tend to deflect backwards (still leaving a flat cut), where others might give you a barrel shaped resaw, that's really not what you want.

Althought his blade is actually 3/4" rather than 1" your point is correct. And while you can correctly tension a blade on a saw that does does not mean that the saw can hold all of the other adjustements in check while doing so.