Making the panels for my bookcase. Resawing 6.5" wide 4/4 cherry. Ended up with 0.35" thick panels.
I ended up having to free-hand track (no fence) the board through the blade because my fence is either moving or flexing. This gave me pretty wavy boards.
I am pretty sure I need to make a new re-saw fence for my Rikon. One more thing to do...
I noticed that too when I had the Rikon, it is was really the fence so much as the blade.
But to rule out a few things,,,,
I am either going to build a nice re-saw fence or make a good single- contact pivot fence.
I'm still very happy with the bandsaw otherwise. Just that POS fence!!
correction. 3/4" WoodSlicer. (went and measured it.)
When making free hand cuts, have you also used a reference pin (Same as a starter pin on a router table)?
Lew
My fence has a pin that can be attached. I should have used it tonight, but forgot I had one. Doh!
What model Rikon do you have?
I've made both a re-saw fence and the single contact pivot fence.
The single point works much better for me.
I am either going to build a nice re-saw fence or make a good single- contact pivot fence.
Well I will not argue about the fence.... it is rather light weight. To be sure again, when you free hand with out the fence is it easy to keep it going in a straight line? If you are having to change direction/make direction adjustments while sawing there is something more that is wrong than just the fence.
Now if the fence movement causes you to go off line and free handing is easy to do I would agree that the fence is probably the root of the problem. Have you tried clamping the back end of the fence down to see if that improves the situation?
You might try taking a look here for some tips. I saw some of these videos
3-4 years ago but they are very informative with an expected bias towards Laguna BSs. I am not trying to sell you on Laguna but these video's can be very helpful in determining if you are always going to be chasing your tail or not. ;~)If you go here there are several BS videos. Scroll to the bottom to the video titled The Perfect Cut ResawKing. It is about 20 minutes long but interesting. Another video about the Laguna guides is also quite interesting and helps you to understand what is going on with the guides during operation.
bearings. Have you checked to make sure both the top and bottom thrust bearings aren't allowing the blade to drift backwards as pressure is applied (and forwards as it is released)? You should start by backing all the bearings (both side and thrust, upper and lower) completely away from the blade, then get the blade to track correctly on the wheels. Assuming the blade is good and sharp (a relatively new 3/4" Woodslicer ought to be *damn* sharp), you should at this point be able to slowly feed small scrap pieces (ones that won't cause too much resistance on the blade) and not have the blade try to drift backwards across the surface of the wheels. If the blade is walking around on the drive wheels, this is going to change the drift angle of the cut. Even without the thrust bearings in place, you should choose a tracking position where the blade isn't prone to walking around, then position the thrust bearings right behind the blade (with a gap not much more than the thickness of a piece of paper) so they will maintain that position as feed pressure is applied. Only then can you reliably adjust the fence for drift angle.
You might try taking a look here for some tips. I saw some of these videos
3-4 years ago but they are very informative with an expected bias towards Laguna BSs. I am not trying to sell you on Laguna but these video's can be very helpful in determining if you are always going to be chasing your tail or not. ;~)If you go here there are several BS videos. Scroll to the bottom to the video titled The Perfect Cut ResawKing. It is about 20 minutes long but interesting. Another video about the Laguna guides is also quite interesting and helps you to understand what is going on with the guides during operation.
What process did you use to round the back of the blade?
What process did you use to round the back of the blade?
You use use a sharpening stone rubbed up and around the back sides of the blade. Do this with the saw running. There are stones made for this specific purpose but I suspect any fine grain stone will work. The ceramic guides on the Laguna automatically does this.
I probably should have mentioned to be very careful at the Laguna site..... My repeated visit to help sort why my Rikon was not doing what I thought it should be doing resulted in me eventually placing an order for the LT16 HD Laguna.....
One thing that REALLY turned me off with Laguna was the very pushy sales man.
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