cheapest versions come without the carbide tools as these are the most
expensive attachments, also probably the most useful! So do your sums.
To answer the question about interchangeability, the answer is that
most of them are, but not all, so be very careful on your multitool
original purchase that the tools are compatible with most Fein(ie.
Multimaster), Makiya, Taskforce etc. brands - Then you get the best
choice of replacement compatible attachments. Beware thare are two
different sizes of triangular sanding tools and sheets.
Useful list not guaranteed, copied from an ebay seller:
four pins and the tools have multi positional slots to match.
Most are rebadged. Once they started catching on everybody started
Fein, Dremel, Milwaukee, Bosch are different, Most of the rest are the
same basic tool with cosmetic changes.
The only thing I have noticed is the high dollar tools are a bit quieter
into a local DIY store in the UK once and out of interest looked at the
power tools and they had the shop brand "Homebase", Challenge brand, and
Bosch. The store brand and Challenge looked identical in all details
apart from the decals and the colour of the mouldings so I assumed came
from the same maker in China with a livery to suit the vendor.
Me, but the cast saw version, though I didn't market the idea.... LOL.
*Bone and cast saws were originally made by Styker. *A scroll saw has
a similar cutting action and I'm surprised someone didn't think, long
ago, of joining the two ideas. I've also wondered if the dust
collector/vacuum cleaner accessory, long ago available for cast saws,
pre-empted the woodshop/tool dust collector.
When our cast saw began to "malfunction", we replaced it with a new
one. I took the old saw home and "repaired" it and have used it
fairly often, ever since. Because of the malfunction, it made more
noise, than before, and though it still worked, in the office, the
increased noise factor, for the patients, contributed to our decision
to replace it.
I've used this old saw long before similar saws came on the market for
woodworking. Even in the office, we would cut through broom/mop
sticks, which were used as bracing across the leg aspects of body
casts, so the leg aspects wouldn't break apart/separate. In order to
remove the body cast, the stick bracing had to be cut, also. *Any
wood support would work, but broom or mop sticks were most convenient
and cheap. A good sturdy wood brace, across a patient's legs, rather
than making one using plaster of paris (cast material), also
facilitated having a good grip/handle, to assist in moving the
patient, when need be. A plaster made bracing would break more
easily... not a good thing for a patient in a body cast!
My cast saw needs a new washer. The old worn one allows the nut,
holding the blade secure, to loosen, hence the blade doesn't vibrate,
to make the cut, anymore.
I don't know if any of today's woodworking blades are teflon coated,
but cast saw blades are teflon coated to prevent heat buildup,
especially when cutting today's fiberglass casts. Since I have the
cast saw, I've never looked into buying a multi tool or checking out
the blades. I have wondered if the straight blades would fit this
cast saw. There have been cuts, I've made, where a straight blade
would have been more convenient, than the round cast saw blade. I
only have the round cast saw blades. Bone saws, used in surgery, do
have various shaped blades.
This might well be right, my el cheapo is noisy as hell but mostly its'
only used when no other tool will do the job, but ear protection would
get over the problem fine for those times it is used if this was a real
problem. Havnt' used any big ticket version - so nothing to compare
I gave the Bosch a try and like it a whole lot more than the HF version.
Soft start, reduced vibration, and reduced noise are all very much
The HF version is worth buying first, then if you find you use the tool
on a regular basis it's worth upgrading to one of the better ones. Keep
the HF version or "donate" it to someplace it would be useful. Mine is
at the local model railroad club, just in case it's needed. Got used a
coupla weeks ago, too.
Oh btw, I found a new use for it. That "grout" blade that's completely
smooth cuts through foam very nicely. It doesn't leave a bunch of
staticy foam dust like the searated edge blades do.
Back when I got mine (RIGID brand), Home Depot had a display
showing that and other similar ones which they also sold (and the other
accessory heads which come with the tool) so you can test them on real
wood. This was about a month before Christmas a couple of years ago.
You might ask whether your local Home Depot will have a similar
comparison display set up, so you can make up your own mind. Among
other heads for the RIGID were a right angle electric drill, and one
which works as a hammer to drive in reasonable sized nails in awkward
locations where you can't get proper access to swing a proper hammer. I
used it, among other things, for driving captive nails affixed to the
plastic outlet/switch boxes when the next stud over was too close.
I've been interested in the proliferation of these tools for quite some
time. I can think of a couple of attachments that might get traction in
the market. My view so far is that they aren't quite there yet. What
do you think?
Well ... the fact that this one has separate motor and heads
allows for a bit more variety than something which is directly
generating an oscillatory motion. The heads which I have are the default
one (oscillatory saw/sander), the confined space hammer, and the
electric drill head.
It is the JobMax series, and includes a 3/8" drive ratchet head,
the "multi-tool" (the vibratory tool), an impact driver head, and the
3/8" right angle drill head. They even have a combo kit having all of
these above, plus the charger.
Also listed (if you click on "show me all the things you find")
there is a jig-saw head and the hammer head
The Jobmax tools have the trigger/speed control and the
forward/reverse switch on the motor module, and the heads can click onto
it in four different orientations, so you can do things like drill
towards yourself or drive nails towards yourself quite comfortably.
I did not get several of the options, as I did not see a need
for them. At this point, I may go back for some of these, as I don't
know how many things will turn out to still work after the fire. But
they also have a 1/2" drill/screwdriver (not another head for this, but
a different series) which puts out enough torque so you really *need*
the extra handle. In particular, the ancient B&D jigsaw (they called it
a "saber saw" back in 1957 or so. :-)
And the 1/2" drill/screwdriver still works after coming out of
the shop *after* the fire. Just a little rust on the drill chuck jaws.
Same for the spare battery and the charger.
So -- I am pretty pleased with what I got. But I don't know
what other brands are like -- but I know that I have been displeased
with earlier battery powered drills because the batteries tend to
discharge between uses, while both of these series use a Lithium-Ion
battery pack -- quick to charge, and holds the charge for along time.
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