I've done a lot of 3 inch thick shelves whre I could fabricate a cleat screwed into studs and slip the shelf over the cleat. Now the shelf is a 7/8 inch thick 5 foot slab of Sapele.. maybe 5 inches deep. Can I make a cleat or does somebody make one I can use for this application?? I would think I need metal here. Thanks much
Cutting it a little close for thickness, but some of these might work.
:
What you are looking for may be found here:
Additional supports are sold singly for increasing load capacity on = shelves long enough to span more than two studs; each extra support adds =
50 lb more capacity at 4" deep, and 25 lb more at 8" deep*.=20The simple instructions included make installation a snap.=20
Made in Canada.=20
P D Q
In = news: snipped-for-privacy@c28g2000vbc.googlegroups.com, Ed Lowenstein dropped this bit of wisdom:
Others have mentioned the blind supports from LV. They're supposed to be for 1" thick shelves though, so the metal plate might be visible in your case.
One other option would be to counterbore part way through the width of the shelf at each stud, with a clearance hole the rest of the way through from the other side, and then put a long lag screw into each stud. You could then either plug the holes or laminate a strip along the front edge to cover them up.
Chris
...or run a long lag part way into the wall studs, cut off the with your new Harbor Freight Multi-Function Power Tool, and mount the shelf as with the LV supports.
On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:03:29 -0500, the infamous Nova scrawled the following:
I've cut screen door tin with the HFMF half-moon tool blade, but will it cut _lags_ without dying a dull and horrible death? I keep my PC Tiger Saw in the truck with me, too, for that purpose.
I thought the HFMFT was more for finesse...and wood.
-- "Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong remedy." -- Ernest Benn
Actually I'd really use a cut-off wheel mounted on a air powered die grinder, but give the recent threads...
Dunno about the HF, but with the metal cutting blade the Fein will go through nails, lags, or anything else that's not hardened.
But it's slow and you're chewing up an expen$ive blade. I agree--cutoff wheel in a die grinder or Dremel is really the way to go for that job.
The LV Blind Shelf Supports don't seem to be as secure as might the Lag Screw Approach.
There are some pretty long lag screws available "out there" and the idea of screwing a rod a couple of inches into the wall stud and, then, slipping the [appropriately drilled] shelf board over the exposed ends after cutting the hex heads off looks to be a much stronger approach than possible with the LV rods.
Alternatively, just get some solid rods from the hardware store and, after drilling appropriate holes into the walls at the studs and a matching set of three or so into the shelf board, slip them in the wall and slip the shelf board on and you have a removeable setup.
In either case, I think a ledger board about the width of the shelf and maybe 1 x 2 inches could be fastened to the bottomm rear of teh shelf board to add a bit more support.
--------------------------------- Start with a hanger bolt and you won't have to cut the head off.
Lew
On Wed, 24 Feb 2010 14:50:34 -0500, the infamous Nova scrawled the following:
What? Sparks all over your hardwood floor and/or carpeting? Not a good idea, Yack. I'd only do that in the (preswept, if that were possible in mine) shop or out on the wet grass. Recip is much safer inside ('cept when you cut into a 240v line. DAMHIKT ;)
-- "Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly, and applying the wrong remedy." -- Ernest Benn
I drilled and drove steel dowels into the studs and the back of the board before. Your wood should work well with 3/8 dowel. It does require a bit of care at installation, but quite effective when done.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.