mounting a floating shelf

I've done a lot of 3 inch thick shelves whre I could fabricate a cleat screwed into studs and slip the shelf over the cleat. Now the shelf is a 7/8 inch thick 5 foot slab of Sapele.. maybe 5 inches deep. Can I make a cleat or does somebody make one I can use for this application?? I would think I need metal here. Thanks much
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On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 12:08:04 -0800 (PST), Ed Lowenstein

Cutting it a little close for thickness, but some of these might work. http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&pQ933&cat=3,43648,43649 http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&pR465&cat=3,43648,43649 http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&pR894&cat=3,43648,43649 http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p@191&cat=3,43648,43649
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On 2/23/10 3:08 PM, Ed Lowenstein wrote:

:http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&pQ933&cat=3,43648,43649&ap=1
Can you get a 7/16 hole in them? Might need two kits.
--
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What you are looking for may be found here:
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=51933&cat=3,43648,43649&ap=1
Blind Shelf Supports Made of zinc-plated steel, a pair of these blind shelf supports will invisibly hold a 1" or thicker shelf. Each mounting plate is anchored to the wall studs with two flat-head screws, and the projecting 5" long hex posts slip into 7/16" holes drilled in the back side of the shelf. Even if your holes end up slightly undersize, the corners of the hex post will cut their way in. The design ensures that the alloy steel coupling screws remain tensioned between the posts and inserts in the plates, yielding a respectable capacity of 100 lb for a 4" deep shelf and up to 50 lb at 8" deep*.
Additional supports are sold singly for increasing load capacity on shelves long enough to span more than two studs; each extra support adds 50 lb more capacity at 4" deep, and 25 lb more at 8" deep*.
The simple instructions included make installation a snap.
Made in Canada.
P D Q
In dropped this bit of wisdom:

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On 02/23/2010 02:08 PM, Ed Lowenstein wrote:

Others have mentioned the blind supports from LV. They're supposed to be for 1" thick shelves though, so the metal plate might be visible in your case.
One other option would be to counterbore part way through the width of the shelf at each stud, with a clearance hole the rest of the way through from the other side, and then put a long lag screw into each stud. You could then either plug the holes or laminate a strip along the front edge to cover them up.
Chris
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Chris Friesen wrote:

...or run a long lag part way into the wall studs, cut off the with your new Harbor Freight Multi-Function Power Tool, and mount the shelf as with the LV supports.
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Buffalo, NY - USA
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On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:03:29 -0500, the infamous Nova

I've cut screen door tin with the HFMF half-moon tool blade, but will it cut _lags_ without dying a dull and horrible death? I keep my PC Tiger Saw in the truck with me, too, for that purpose.
I thought the HFMFT was more for finesse...and wood.
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Larry Jaques wrote:

Actually I'd really use a cut-off wheel mounted on a air powered die grinder, but give the recent threads...
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Jack Novak
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On 2/24/2010 2:50 PM, Nova wrote:

Dunno about the HF, but with the metal cutting blade the Fein will go through nails, lags, or anything else that's not hardened.
But it's slow and you're chewing up an expen$ive blade. I agree--cutoff wheel in a die grinder or Dremel is really the way to go for that job.
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On Wed, 24 Feb 2010 14:50:34 -0500, the infamous Nova

What? Sparks all over your hardwood floor and/or carpeting? Not a good idea, Yack. I'd only do that in the (preswept, if that were possible in mine) shop or out on the wet grass. Recip is much safer inside ('cept when you cut into a 240v line. DAMHIKT ;)
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"Nova" wrote:

--------------------------------- Start with a hanger bolt and you won't have to cut the head off.
Lew
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The LV Blind Shelf Supports don't seem to be as secure as might the Lag Screw Approach.
There are some pretty long lag screws available "out there" and the idea of screwing a rod a couple of inches into the wall stud and, then, slipping the [appropriately drilled] shelf board over the exposed ends after cutting the hex heads off looks to be a much stronger approach than possible with the LV rods.
Alternatively, just get some solid rods from the hardware store and, after drilling appropriate holes into the walls at the studs and a matching set of three or so into the shelf board, slip them in the wall and slip the shelf board on and you have a removeable setup.
In either case, I think a ledger board about the width of the shelf and maybe 1 x 2 inches could be fastened to the bottomm rear of teh shelf board to add a bit more support.
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I drilled and drove steel dowels into the studs and the back of the board before. Your wood should work well with 3/8 dowel. It does require a bit of care at installation, but quite effective when done.
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