The problem with me sharing something about this is that someone might
(conceivably, if they had been drinking, perhaps...) think I know what
I'm talking about. I was just thinking about all of the bicycles I've
seen that had a brake pad on just one side...
It couldn't be any good for the bearings (on the motor on the TS), huh?
That is a completely irrelevant comparison.
Look at the forces involved.
A bicycle brake is dealing with what I might speculate to be 1000x the
200lbs at 25+mph is a lot momentum and those little pads do quite a good
job at it.
A coasting 10" saw blade along with whatever mass is added to it by the
arbor assembly is stopped in a couple seconds by light pressure applied
to the side of the blade with a 1cc section of mdf.
I do it all the time. I could probably use my finger.
Try stopping a bike going down hill with that little piece of mdf
pressed lightly against the wheel. Won't happen. :-)
The arbor on my Delta is a pretty massive item. In another post, I
stated that I would put the pad closer to the arbor, *just in case.*
However, the arbor bearings that couldn't handle the little amount of
pressure it would take to slow down a coasting saw blade wouldn't last
very long on a table saw in its normal operation.
Grinding wheel arbors and extensions don't seem to be affected by forces
much, much greater than what I've considering.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Now you're reading this on the internet, which also makes it true:
The force applied to the blade near the arbor by a small bicycle brake caliper
is going to be far less stressful on the arbor bearings than some gnarly nasty
piece of wood that's twisting into the blade at the outer perimeter while
you're trying to cut it. When you have a piece of wood that's binding on the
blade and you cut power to the motor, think of how little time it actually
takes for the blade to stop. What, a second or two maybe? That's all I would
be asking for in a convenience brake; to stop the blade within a second or two,
rather than the 10 or 15 seconds (or longer on some saws) it takes for the
blade to stop by itself, and it's not going to take that much pressure to get
it done. And as you've also read on the internet, it's pretty common practice
for people to stop the blade by shoving a piece of wood up against it from the
side; I'd imagine that would also put more stress on the arbor bearings than an
inboard brake caliper.
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
Mike, typical caliper pads are unloaded by the play in the wheel
bearings and a bit of runout on the disc. Unless you have some wobble
in the blade, the pads will continue to drag on the blade. Just one
more thing to work out. Build self-retracting pad retractors and...
You'll be rich!
Do not taunt Happy Fun Ball!
On Sat, 16 Oct 2010 21:04:36 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
Only to an engineer in an office, not in real life.
Go jack up a disc braked car and spin the wheel. Now climb inside and
give the brake pedal a good stomp. Then spin the wheel again. You'll
find that they're not quite self-retracting. A quick pop on the side
(top or bottom) of the tire with your hand will release it, though.
Know how to listen, and you will
profit even from those who talk badly.
A dual piston or 4 piston caliper will release virtually immediately.
A single piston caliper will release the inside pad immediately, and
depending on the slider design, can also release the outer pad
immediately (rubber bushed pin type sliders)
Those with metal plate type sliders will not release the outside pad
without a bit of "external help" - and if those sliders are corroded
and/or inadequately lubricated, often not even WITH significant
If you get corrosion on the pistons, or crud buildup around the
piston, the self retracting is a lot less effective.
That very well could be true, and you could also use such a brake with dado
blades of any thickness... Interesting observation there Mike; I'm gonna have
to go do some peeking inside my Unisaw to see what the possibilities are. :-)
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
Well, peek I did, but it seems the opportunities for mounting such a device, on
the Unisaw at least, are virtually nil. There are just too many clearance
problems to overcome. However, it does seem possible that I could mount a thin
disc to the motor pulley (one that's a couple of inches larger in diameter) and
apply caliper pressure to that instead. The calipers would have to be mounted
to a bracket that attaches to the motor housing, but that shouldn't be too hard
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
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