mot melt edge banding


I don't have a dedicated pre-set temperature edge banding iron, so I'm gonna borrow swmbo's. If I wreck it, I'll buy her a new one for Valentine's day (ducks).
Anyway, what would the proper temperature be for iron-on melamine edge banding?
tia,
jc
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I've only done it with the iron-on oak veneer edge banding, but the medium setting seemed to work just fine. I emptied the water out of the iron first. It seemed pretty forgiving.
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noonenparticular wrote:

I spent all of $9.99 at Kmart for a steam iron since my wife didn't want me using her Rowenta. it works great for iron on stuff. And it's MINE. :)
Dave
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"noonenparticular" wrote in message

If you still have the original packaging, it should say. The type we use on 'trim carpenter' built shelving around here goes on with the iron set on a "low" heat.
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Test it.
You want it hot enough that the adhesive melts sufficiently to crawl into the fibres of the substrate..... but not so hot as to scorch/melt/bubble/discolour/set-ablaze/smoke/stink/burn your tape.
I find that if you apply it with an iron, of sufficient temperature, then tamp it down by pushing something solid and smooth against it, like a block of metal, which will work as a heatsink, cooling the tape and freezing it in place, and will not allow the tape to lift itself off the edge. Holding it down while cooling will give you a superior edge when you trim the excess with a chisel. (Chisel will need to be registered:) I use a short/stubby 1-1/4" Footprint cheapie with back-bevel so it won't dig in as easily.
HTH
r.
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The Oak banding I bought said to use the "cotton" setting - which is the hot setting. I did cover the sole of the iron with alum foil just to keep the glue off of it.
Glad I did!

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Go to several garage/yard sales. You can find irons for 50 cents or so. I set mine on next to the hottest setting and follow the iron with a block of wood to cool the edge banding soon after it adheres. I then use a Veritas trimmer similar to http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM 0-344 to cut the excess.
Frank
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noonenparticular wrote:

I always use the "hot" setting. After ironing on the edging use a soft wooden block to give it a good hard rub to ensure that it is fixed. If the iron has an Aluminium sole on it use a cloth between the iron and the edging as the aluminium can leave black marks which are a real bitch to get rid of.
Here's the trick to removing the excess edging. You can use a chisel as previously stated but don't use the cutting edge!! Place the chisel flat on the board and use it like a scissor. Cutting in toward the timber. A scraper works better using the same technique. When trimmed just hit the edges with a piece of 120 paper on a block.
regards John
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Have put a sketch of sorts in a.b.p.w.

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Thanks everyone for the help.
jc

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