find it less expensive elsewhere. Sooo you normally get to buy it from
whom ever you want, normally.
Fortunately most all sellers of Festool ship for free.
If Woodcraft could get it with in a week or so, would that be too late?
Just in case the Domino did not suite you it would probably be easier on
you to return to the local Woodcraft vs. shipping back some where else.
Just a thought.
The question was NOT about making tenons. But whether a wider mortise
can be cut with the Domino by making multiple, _or overlapping_ , cuts
(one and a half or two passes), with its usual ease and precision??
On 9/18/2016 8:57 AM, Leon wrote:
> It is relatively easy to make a tenons but not so much, precisely
> sized. A
> little to thin and alignment problems on mating pieces show up.
Buying them is indeed more convenient, but I seriously question whether
it is less expensive, or more precise. ;)
IME, cutting precise fitting floating tenons is no more difficult than
cutting precisely dimensioned, in width and thickness, project stock.
For the projects I do, like the chair reproductions, custom sized
joinery has the same obvious benefits of any custom made endeavor over
I personally like the fact that I can size the joinery as precisely for
the project dimensions as I can, as if I were cutting the mortise and
tenon joinery by hand.
With the added plus that the tenons will be of the same species, and
with matching grain characteristics, which arguably benefits the
strongest possible glue joint.
I'm aware that is putting a fine point on it, but, after all, putting a
fine point on things is how we both have been able to make a living
doing what we do. LOL
>> If the need arose is there any reason you can't cut a wider mortise
>> the domino (say one and a half or two passes) and make your own
> No, I have cut wider slots but not for wider tenons. I cut wider
> slots for screws to slide in.
Your "No" Sounds more like a "Yes" to my question?
Let me rephrase:
Can the Domino easily be used to facilitate, at least in in part, the
custom aspect remarked upon above by using it to cut wider, _custom_
IOW, wider than its built-in width capacity; and, equally importantly,
with its customary ease and accuracy?
Not arguing ... mine is a valid question, as I'm once again considering
trading in my Multi-Router for a Domino to free up some shop space ...
I'm tripping over every damned thing in the shop these days.
How much is your time worth? ;~) How much would you charge me to make
6,000 5mm x 30mm tennons with impressions on both sides?
True but there will be trials to get the "just right fit" each time you
decide to make more tenons.
And for specific cases, making custom sized tenons is a worthwhile
process. But for routine mortises the standard sized Domino tenons will
suffice a majority of the time. I was not meaning to say that making
"custom sized" tenons is not worthwhile so much as making the exact same
sized as what you can easily buy is not so much of a time or money saver.
I'm breaking down your sentence....
is there any reason you can't cut a wider mortise with the domiono.....
No, there is no reason you can't cut a wider mortise with the domino. ;~)
Yes, you can cut a complete dado or groove all the way across or down
the edge of a board if you want so making a wider mortise than the
machine is normally set to cut is no issue.
The procedure is simply to move the domino the amount you want and make
an additional plunge. The add on accessory kit which adds indexing
wings on both sides of the Domino will aid in placement.
I would say that cutting a "PRECISE" wider width mortise might be a bit
problematic in some cases. IMHO it would be prudent to count on making
the mortise slightly wider than the actual width of the tenon.
Something I do on every one of my mating joints.
Well you are welcome to play with my Domino and get the feel and perhaps
I could better explain how you might go after some of your custom sized
When I got my Domino it happened to not be "PERFECTLY" calibrated for
width of the mortise in relation to being centered between the indexing
pins. I talked to Feestool and they agreed to re-calibrate it within
weeks of buying it.
BUT they advised me how I can get around this situation should it become
a problem in the future. This is only an issue if the calibration is
off and you are using exact fit mortises on both pieces of material.
Because your use opposite sided indexing pins for mating pieces of
material any error is doubled. This is much easier illustrated than
At any rate thousands of mortises later I seldom if ever use the
indexing pins and am totally happy with the results.
Accuracy of the location of the mortise up and down is a non issue as
you reference the same faces of the material to cut the mortise.
I'll bring my Domino over tonight and splain'it.
Yep, it certainly is, if off-the-shelf dominoes will work on a project,
it makes no sense.
And, the lack of mm sized router bits, to match the radius of the domino
cut mortise's curved edges, as an excuse for not doing so, is a
non-issue when faced with making a handful of custom widths for a project.
Even more so when it has been stated here a number of times that it is
desirable to cut the domino mortise a bit wider than the domino width to
gain some wiggle room... meaning a precise fit in the radiused corners
is not an absolute necessity.
When needing just a few, I routinely put the proper radius, using a
Nicholson 49, on all four edges of loose tenons, usually in well under a
I'm a big fan of the Domino machine ... but I'm also constantly running
across projects where the ability to cut non standard sized joinery is
the key to the project's success, particularly those projects that can't
be designed/fabricated around the capabilities of the tool, i.e.,
reproductions ... therefore my interest in this thread.
That said, Leon convinced me last night that doing custom sized, _wider_
mortises is easily doable with the Domino, with little fuss or muss ...
and my experience is that making those custom width tenons should not an
issue for even a novice woodworker.
Actually many custom builders are using the larger Domino for large
Click on the video
Good observations but mortisers are S L O W compared to a Domino.
FWIW and having used both a Domino is as fast to use per joint as a
A mortiser is maybe twice as fast as doing by hand by an experienced
A mortiser does half of the joint, you still have to cut tenons and
every fit is probably going to have to be tweaked. The Domino does both
sides of the joint perfectly almost instantly.
I bought my Domino with the expectation to use it like my biscuit
joiner. The tool is so versatile that I have used it 10 more than I
ever did with the biscuit cutter.
Not that I recall, but I do lap joints and reinforce with the domino.
So mortising a surface with intricate edges is no issue.
As long as you have a solid surface to register against, you can add a
mortise to a coped edge/joint.
Take a look here this is a reinforced lap joint.
The mortises were cut after cutting the 1/4" thick tongue which will
engage the mating rabbet.
How it fits with the domino tenon in the thicker 2/3" of the joint.
Freshly cut mortises. The Domino motiser's face registers against the
tongue and I simply adjust the depth of plunge and extra 12mm to span
the 1/2" gap.
The fact that there is not a total solid surface should not matter. All
you need is a face on the work for the fence to rest on and an edge for
the face of the mortiser to register against.
The rails with mortises,
And the mating stiles with the mortises.
These joints are very strong when reinforced with a Domino and I
reinforce all of these joints with the Domino.
If I added a decorative edge and or use my rail and stile bits the
Domino could reinforce those joints too.
On 9/15/2016 7:23 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> Come to think the Leigh will have a similar limitation--it can't cut
> any deeper than the longest router bit I can get.
Consider using end mills for cutting mortises with a router. I don't use
anything else on my Multi-Router.
Since most large door frame stiles are rarely over 6" in width, I doubt
that will ever be a practical limitation, as the traditional rules for
tenon length is five times its thickness, or 1/3rd the width of the stile.
It's a third of the thickness, 2/3 of the _width_ for a door. So a six
inch stile needs a 4 inch tenon. Still, did some measuring and the
widest is only 4 inches so the Domino's back in the running.
Any thoughts on using it with a coped joint?
Not necessarily ... and why gawd invented various types of M&T joinery. ;)
Shorter, double, or twin, tenons at the joint (dead simple to do with a
tool like the XL Domino), and depending upon the thickness (with regard
to the amount of stock removal necessary that could weaken a critical
point) will often afford a stronger joint than a single 4" tenon.
I've built a number of large doors and don't consider the max tenon
length for the XL Domino to be practically limiting for most residential
door applications ... unless of course you're building a castle, or
doing timber framing. ;)
I hadn't really thought about a floor-standing mortiser--I generally
think of those as "too expensive" but the Powermatic is midway between
the two Dominos and would fit right in with doing the coped tenons that
dpb suggested (which was the direction I was leaning anyway).
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