Well, glued up the first storm window frame today. Lessons learned--
domino tenon can hold a _lot_ of glue. If I'm going to be producing
these in any kind of quantity I need to make up a jig to keep them
square. Domino does a remarkable job of keeping surfaces even--edges I
need to practice on a bit. Not sure if I'm going to stick with
cypress--it's softer than I remembered from making lawn furniture some
years back and just from ordinary handling it gets dinged up. I hope I
can get it painted this week and glaze it and put it up over the weekend
and once that's done the worst-damaged window will at least have
something covering it.
A key to building square frames, as I am sure you well know, is for the
like/same pieces to be precisely the same length. That is the easy
part, just batch cut the parts and cut the ends square.
Clamping up is another story. I have come up with a method the insures
accuracy with out jigs or squares.
I'll try to explain as simply as I can.
The trick is for the rails to line up precisely with the ends of the
stiles. While this does not seem like rocket science all too often
after removing the clamps a rail is short or proud of the end of the
stile, and that throws square out the window.
If you use 2 small clamps to clamp a strait edge scrap, longer than the
rail, to the edge of the rail it establishes an indexing stop on both
ends of the rail. The straight edge protrusion on each end will index
to the bottom of the stiles.
Next use bar clamps to squeeze the straight edge protrusions "snug"
against the ends of the stiles.
Next use clamps and tighten the stiles against the ends of the rails.
You can now remove all clamps except the two that clamp the stiles
against the ends of the rails.
This picture shows the alignment clamps mentioned in the first two
steps. Not shone are the final 2 clamps that will clamp the stiles
against the rail ends on the top and bottom of the frame.
After those top and bottom clamps are applied tightly, all clamps in the
picture can be removed while the glue dries, or not.
Not really. Most vacuums have some way to make a hole in the hose.
Turn down the Festool and it doesn't just suck less hard, the noise
level goes down as well. And it has a much wider range of adjustment
than the "hole in the hose" kind.
I understand the Festool sells that feature as a safety when working on
a circuit that might trip should you be running an amp hungry power tool
and the vac. Turning down the suction/motor speed decreases the draw on
the circuit. This might very well be a good deal when working on older
Sure, as I said above, I have a Crapsman 5-1/2HP (with a 16Ga cord)
shop vac that has variable speed. I don't think I've used it more
than once at anything but the highest setting (actually the power
switch can be set to either be variable of full).
The variable speed on the Festool vac is very helpful when using it with
sanders. If the suction is too high the sander moves sluggishly across
the work. The best setting is with the power turned do to just enough
to capture the dust and lets the sander move freely.
Perhaps the sander moves sluggishly due to it being pulled into the
work from too much suction. Excess suction could be relieved by
redesigning/opening the vents in the sander. OTOH, prolly cheaper to
add variable speeds on shop vac. ;)
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