Does anyone combo a mortiser and a router to make a mortise? I ask
because, as much fun as my delta mortiser bits have turned out to be, I
think I'd have better luck (and less risk of breakage) if I cut the end
points and then zipped the board down between them.
Since I'll have to cut 12 mortises per column (48 total) I'm looking
for the least amount of work that is as reproduceable as possible.
Suggestions welcome (part of the wine rack posts I've made in the
| Does anyone combo a mortiser and a router to make a mortise? I ask
| because, as much fun as my delta mortiser bits have turned out to
| be, I think I'd have better luck (and less risk of breakage) if I
| cut the end points and then zipped the board down between them.
| Since I'll have to cut 12 mortises per column (48 total) I'm looking
| for the least amount of work that is as reproduceable as possible.
| Suggestions welcome (part of the wine rack posts I've made in the
Do it all with the router and cut round-ended tenons to match.
DeSoto, Iowa USA
First and most importantly, squared tennons give you much better
What size are these mortises to be cut? -- How wide, how long, how deep?
For most mortises up to 1/2" wide, hand mortising is pretty darned
fast. If they're the usual 1/4"x 2-3" mortises, then 48 should be as
fast by hand, and a lot more fun. The deal is to start the mortise
about 3/16" or so from their ends, strike down with the flat chisel
side toward that end, do the other end likewise, and then pry the
waste-wood out. Repeat and repeat.
(Sure wish there were a way to sketch here)
At least get yourself a good mortising chisel to square the ends --
much faster than setting up a mortising machine, and since you can
place your mortising chisel precisely, more accurate as well.
Each, if the mockup works and holds, will be 3/4 deep, 1/2 wide, and 1
1/4 tall. These are going into 2x2" maple rails and the supports are
1x2" maple slats. They'll hold 6-10 wine bottles, which translates to
about 30lbs per shelf (15lbs per rail). They *should* hold that just
fine, although I haven't tested what would happen if the top should
I would find it much easier to make them 3/4 deep, 1/4 wide, and 1"
tall but that gets back to trying to figure out how to make everything
correctly and accurately the first time thru- hence my interest in jigs
around router mortising.
I make my tenons slightly fat on the tablesaw, shoulder plane them to
fit and remove the tenon corners with a sharp chisel. A rasp or hard
sanding block will also round the tenons nicely. Some folks use jigs
to make the tenons with a router, so they start out with rounded
Find your favorite router jig and throw that mortising machine
A router makes mortising a fun thing. A good jig is essential
but that can be made in a couple of minutes...
Sad to say I'm already aware of this. I was making a shelf for the
dining room- and the cove bit 'wandered' a bit as I progressed. Had to
retighten the collet 5x across the 8 feet of the shelf length.
When I finished I was more worried what would have happen had it come
free at those speeds....
Mike Marlow wrote:
That will take a great deal of creativity. I strongly
suggest you buy a decent plunge router. There are a
great many on the market and this will allow you to make
mortising a joy and not such an ordeal.
Here are few examples:
On 20 Oct 2006 18:52:01 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
I do it differently than the other posts in this particular thread,
and it may be helpful to you (or not.)
I usually carefully lay out the mortises with a square and a pencil,
then make the center line of the area to be removed, and mark it at
1/2 of the total width from each end, with several marks in between
the two. I whack each of the marks with a nail set to insure that the
drill bit seats properly, then drill several holes with a forsner bit
to the desired depth.
After you've got most of the material removed, it's very easy to clean
up the leftover bits in the corners and on the edges of the mortise
with a chisel.
The benefit to this is that it makes cutting the tenons on the table
saw simpler, and there's no need to round off the corners like you
would with the router method.
It is fast? Not at first, no. But I made a park bench a year or two
ago with 96 hand-cut mortises using this technique, and after the
first couple, the rest got easier and easier until it now it doesn't
take signifigantly longer to cut them by hand then it would to set up
and use a dedicated mortising machine.
Some tips on morticing with a router at the :
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