Morris Chair Upholstery

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On Fri, 05 Nov 2004 11:22:13 +0000, Andy Dingley

That's why it's good that we're handy. We can make our own tools while the more common types abound either locally or on Ebay.

Right. I didn't pay any attention to the styles, being more interested in the techniques. The photos covering each step were superb, so much so that you could probably learn upholstery from that book even if you couldn't read. I'll have to take another look at James' book for that foam info, but I recall his having a chart of densities which I found fascinating.
Most upholstery books are WAAAAAY dated.
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Sonny admonished you to stretch the jute webbing tightly. The easiest way to do that is with stretching pliers...they have jaws about the width of the jute and a projection that serves a fulcrum to give leverage. Pix... https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=stretching%20pliers&oe=utf-8&channel=suggest&gws_rd=ssl&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi
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dadiOH
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On Wednesday, January 14, 2015 at 6:21:12 AM UTC-6, dadiOH wrote: -

I had assumed she didn't have a dedicated stretching tool. The gooseneck tool has a rubber padding, to prevent wood damage/marring. I use the gooseneck most often. http://www.perfectfit.com/15362/154587/Tools/Gooseneck-Webbing-Stretcher.html
She also has a husband. He can pull it plenty tight enough, manually, that way. **It's probably time she put him to work, anyway! : )
Sonny
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dbj, one thing I forgot to comment on:
I suppose your cushion's spring unit is intact, in that, it has an edge wir e perimeter around the springs. I suppose your whole seat unit is not lik e the chair pic (first pic) on my Flickr page. That chair does not have an edge wire perimeter around the springs. The "plywood" pics have an edge wire around the springs.
Make sure your edge wiring is in good shape, to hold the individual springs securely and for good tying. I suppose your whole spring unit is a squari sh or rectangle box configuration, to fit your Morris chair seat shape. Wh en tying things together, make sure you don't distort the "box" or "rectang le" form. Keep all angles and corners squared up. This should apply to y our backrest cushion, also, if your backrest cushion has coil springs, has coil springs "wrapped" with an edge wire, also.
Sonny
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Continuing with the upholstering procedure:
My box seat spring unit has sides.... or front, back and side faces. These faces don't need to be padded or padded as much as the top of the seat. I would think your seat would be padded similarly as I've padded this outdo or seating.
Referring to the additional pics: The spring/seat unit is covered with (synthetic, white) burlap. This burla p layer doesn't need to be tight, just snuggly fitted and attached/stapled in place. The very top surface of the seat is padded with 2 layers of cotton, which b arely overlaps the edge wire. The edge wire needs to be padded, so that it isn't felt, when sitting on the seat. A third layer of cotton is applied, not only on the top surface, but it also droops down the sides, covering t he sides/faces. You might prefer 4 layers of cotton padding, for your high er-end Morris chairs. As mention before, for a good quality chair, I would n't skimp on the interior paddings and a layer of 1/4" felt, on top of the burlap, prior to the cotton, would be my choice, if they were my Morris cha irs.
Next pic shows a layer of fiberfill/batting, covering all the previous padd ing. The edges of the fiberfill are attached to the edges of the ply base. The seat is ready for the upholstery fabric.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/
Sonny
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