More on mortise chisels

I'm still on my quest for a good set of mortise chisels. When I last posted, I was referred to Jim Wilson for his hand-made chisels, but sadly he wrote back to me today indicating that he's getting back out of the chisel business. He's filling his backlog of orders, but not accepting any more.
I ventured a peek at the offerings on the Japan Woodworker website. I'm sure these are fine tools, but the price seems a bit stratospheric for my budget. And finally I'm managed to wander around to the point of this message. Look at the picture they've got on their web site:
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id .303 .09&dept_id592
http://tinyurl.com/r1u1
The detail on the right shows what I assume are front, back, and side views of the chisel. I don't understand the middle (back view) image. I'm assuming the back is flat, but the picture makes it look like it's oval with beveled edges. Is this just an artifact of the way it's photographed? It's got to be flat on the back, yes?
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behind the cutting edge and adjacent to the two sides are coplanar, and guide your cut.
--
Alex
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As I recall, Japanese chisels are laminated and the back is hollow-ground or hammered that way to minimize resistance and probably a dozen other good scientific reasons for doing it that way.
As for chisels, the Nov issue of Popular Woodworking has a small article about chisels on pg 28. "Ashley Iles American Pattern Bevel-edge Chisels". FWW has a special issue "Tool Guide" out for selecting tools that >> may << be of help. Check their respective sites.
Bob S.
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Also takes less time to flatten the back when you need to. At least until you have worked your way back to the hollow area.
-Jack

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Not quite, there's a hollow in the back as on other Japanese chisels. The flats on the sides serve as guides
I've got two of them, and all my future mortise chisels are going to be Japanese. You may find, as I did, that the edge tends to chip very slightly if you work hardwoods. I honed a secondary bevel at a higher angle using a Veritas jig, and had no further trouble. I also found that I had to adjust my technique slightly, as a Japanse mortise chisel's handle is not lined up the same way as a European, and the cross-section of the blade is different. Also, if you're going Japanese, I would advise you to try a barrel-shaped hammer with your mortising chisels; the difference from a mallet is amazing, in terms of both accuracy and speed (they're on the facing page to the chisels in the Japan Woodworker catalog).
Only one P in my real address/ Un seul P dans ma vritable adresse
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Try Iyoroi. They're the low end of Japanese, about the same price as Sorby or Henry Taylor, and quite affordable. Although they're not as attractive as hand-forged or pattern welded chisels, they are laminated and handle much the same. Like most cheap Japanese chisels, the hollow back is formed by grinding, not forging.
Personally I favour Japanese for bench chisels, but not for heavy morticing. I have mortice chisels, but I wouldn't use them in a deep mortice where I'm levering chips out. The Japanese tradition here is to use three chisels; two of which are "harpoon" chisels with small side-cutting edges, used to sever these chips with an almost "scraping" sideways action. Personally though I just switch to a big old Marples and lean on the end.
-- Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
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assorted snips

Sorry if you've discussed this in a previous thread, but have you looked at Sorby and Barr?
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Barr Quarton will make whatever you want.
--
Ross
www.myoldtools.com
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