MLCS 1/4" T&G Set - OK for 1/4" MDF panels?

ar with 1/4" MDF panels and I was looking at this MLCS T&G router bit set:

/bit_tongue_groove.html

lity to move the groove back towards the rear of rails/stiles, while the #7

841 would force me to center the T&G. It is my understanding that 1/4" MDF is really 1/4", unlike 1/4" plywood which is less.

estic MDF it would be 1/4", if it was imported it would probably be less.

ey carry are 1/4". $19.95 per 49" x 97" sheet. I plan to swing by and measu re the panels before I order the bit set, but I'd like your thoughts on the issue first.

m starting with the same stick built cabinets (just more of them) and build ing the same doors. My drawers fronts will match the doors as opposed to be plain like yours.

ecommend or is the placement based on the look that the client (me) is goin g for?

de I have won't do the job. Never having done a stub tenon on a table saw, I'm not sure if the dado blade shown below will do a good enough job. Obvio usly some testing is in order.

picked up at a garage sale a few years ago. Instead of the single blade no rmally associated with a wobble dado blade, this style has 2 blades:

keeping in mind that I will not be doing production work like you.

I hope to do some testing tomorrow - Sunday.

I spent most of today installing the new drawers using Swingman's slide fra mes. It's all well and good that they worked fine on the bench, but it took a bunch of shimming to get them level front to back and side to side in th e cabinets themselves.

For the time being I re-used the old drawer fronts which were actually part of the original drawers. Not drawers fronts, but the actual front of the d rawer. The sides were nailed into a 3/8" "raised panel" on the back of the drawer front. I built a jig, put a wide base on my router and removed the r aised panel so the fronts would sit flat on my new drawer boxes. No sense i n letting the drawers sit around while I make the drawer fronts, doors, pai nt the kitchen, etc.

Anyway, tomorrow will be stub tenon training day.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Reply to
DerbyDad03
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Ahh, gotch! I was thinking you were worried about the slot for the panel..

I do stub tenon frames on the table saw with careful blade setups to get the proper fit. In general, if the cut is something that could be done with either a router or tablesaw, I tend to go the tablesaw route if the total cutting length is more than a few linear feet (less wear 'n' tear on expensive router bits)

Anyhoo, carry on!

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Reply to
Brewster

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