Mitering large bevel angles

[Rob Pierce]

I have a sculpture project where I need to bevel hardboard at 60 degree angles. My DeWalt compound miter saw can only bevel to 48 degrees.

I don't see any way around this, but does anyone have any tricks or ideas to achieve such a cut? Keep in mind that the angle I need should be as precise as possible.

The idea of buying a new miter saw is discouraging but I'll bite the bullet if it means getting this project done.

Thanks

Rob Pierce

[e-mail]

[Leon]

Since you are cutting a bevel vs. a miter, you are probably going to have to use a table saw with the piece standing on edge against the rip fence and IIRC you wan to set the blade bevel to 30 degrees.

[Rumpty]

If you break down an buy a new saw for this job, make it a nice DeWalt RAS...

;-)

[Bernard Randall]

If you have a router - make a jig, essestially two straight pieces of wood, fixed so that the the router is the required angle to the workpiece. If you need more details I can email you a sketch.

BernardR

[Bill Wallace]

Is this a troll?

Isn't 30 degrees the other side of 60? Can't you turn the piece over or am I missing something here?

BW

[Leon]

Your missing something. Turn the piece over and you still end up with 30 degrees.

[Bob]

I think you are missing something. Forget the numbers for a second and let's describe it physically. I believe what the OP is looking for is beveling the edge of board at a very shallow angle - much shallower than can be done with a miter saw or table saw with the wood laid out flat on the table. That's why the suggestion to cut it with the wood standing vertically against the table saw fence.

Bob

[Morris Dovey]

Rob...

You might consider changing tools. If I needed to do this in my shop, my approach would probably be to stand the hardboard on edge and run it through my table saw on edge with the sawblade set 30º off vertical. I'd probably back the hardboard with plywood or a piece of 2x6.

It'd also probably be possible to build a fixture of construction lumber to which the hardboard could be clamped and which would support a hand-guided circular saw (imagine an inverted "L" shape). A straightedge could be clamped to such a fixture for the saw's sole plate to bear against (to insure a straight saw path).

I think you could use either of these approaches to achieve fairly decent precision.

[Bill Wallace]

No wonder my projects always come out so screwed up! Plus, I figured out that I was indeed missing something... my brain. Im glad I take a bit more time to think things through in the shop, I really enjoy all these fingers.

BW

[Leon]

LOL Most often it is the simple things that throw us.