mitering a picture frame

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Hello everyone,
I'm building some picture frames, and want to know if there are any tricks to getting the miters to be exactly 45 degrees. Seems that there must be something better than endless tweaking.
Curt Blood
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I have made quite a number of picture frames so far. What I have found that works for me is to set the blade tilt using a plastic 45-45-90 drafting triangle. I then cut a couple of miters and check for square. If necessary tweak and try again. It usually doesn't take more that a few minutes to get it right.
BTW, I am using a 10" Delta Contractors saw.
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My Chiwanese Lion-copy miter trimmer does an acceptable job.
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On 20 Oct 2004 12:15:50 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (CBlood59) wrote:

Cut them to exactly 45 in the first place. This might take some adjustment and repeated test-cutting, but it's easier than trying to adjust them afterwards. Like dovetails, mitres are best cut in one quick pass, as "adjustment" afterwards never really works.
Or else find a cast iron mitre guillotine.
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CBlood59 wrote:

Curt, the problem with technology is that we forget what worked and more importantly "why" it worked. If you want good solid miters do the simple thing and make a miter sled. The process is simple and all you need is a framing square (what a wonderful tool it is).
The following is given assuming you will be using the miter slot on the left of the blade (that keeps your hands away from the blade). Cut a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 inch ply or mdf about 18x24. Measure over to find the distance from the side of your tablesaw miter slot to the blade. Add 1/2" and using the framing square strike a line along the bottom of the ply (or mdf). Get or cut a piece of stock that will just fit in the miter slot and attach it to the ply making sure you keep it dead even with, and touching the line on its right side (left when you have the ply upside down). Attach with glue and screws then put the runner in the miter slot and cut to size.
Using your framing square, place it on the right side of the sled with the point about centered on the sled. Move it out until both corresponding 2" marks just intersect the side of the sled. Mark, very carefully along both legs of the square. Cut some dead square 3/4" stock and carefully attach along those lines with screws and glue, allowing them to extend far enough past the side that the back of the piece overhangs the sled.
I have one I have been using for years and would not trade it for the world. BTW, the reason for striking two lines on the top is two fold. You might be like me and get one of them a bit off. The other reason is if both are dead on, you can cut both sides without having to reset.
I know there are more involved sleds, but this one works for me.
Deb
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wrote:

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(snipped interesting stuff)

Can you post a pic in binaries?
Mekon
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"CBlood59" wrote in message

There may be several answers. What tool are you using to cut your miters?
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Subject: Re: mitering a picture frame From: "Swingman" snipped-for-privacy@nospam.com Date: Wed, Oct 20, 2004 2:14 PM
"CBlood59" wrote in message

There may be several answers. What tool are you using to cut your miters?
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Consider making a miter sled like the one on the Jig and Fixtures page of my website.
Big plus is the _exact_ "45 degree" angle basically becomes a moot point (particularly with the usual widths of picture frame miters) because the order of cut insures complementary angles, and the jig allows you to use a stop block to insure the sides are all cut the same length.
These two concepts combined make miter cutting a much easier task, with less tweaking.
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I think your solution is the best -- and it is on my list to do before my framemaking starts. Question: Why don't you have stops on both sides of the sled? Yes, it would be a bit (more) awkward to store, but wouldn't that help ensure identical lengths of opposing sides -- i.e., do the frame sides to the left and the frame top and bottom to the right of the blade? TIA. -- Igor
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"igor" wrote in message

Don't really need but one "stop" since you _always_ make the cuts in a particular sequence if you want to take advantage of the built-in complementary angle and length precision.
Having only one stop allows the two oppopsing sides to be precision cut to length (as well as keeping you from cutting out of sequence).

For a "stop" on the left, simply cut from "right to left".
IOW, on each piece make your first miter cut to the right of the blade and make your second miter cut, for length, to the left of the blade.
Obviously, always cut the two pieces that need to be the same length before moving the stop.
Easy/elegant/dummy proof ... and I need all of the latter I can get.
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Now I see. Thanks for the additional details. -- Igor

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I am able to do the job with my table saw alone. But I have a sliding table that makes it a piece of cake. They come out right every time.
One approach to "fine tuning" a miter quickly is with a hand plane and a shop made miter trimmer. See Jeff Gorman's page on shooting planes and scan down the page to the picture of the miter trimmer. http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingpoints/shootingboards/shootingindex.htm .
If you're doing this commercially, then the fastest way is probably the dedicated miter slicer. I think they cost about $150-$200.
Bob
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Here's a link to a much simpler shooting plane for miters.
http://www.geocities.com/plybench/tmp.jpg
Bob
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Hi, Curt,
The other factor to take into account is that the lengths of opposing sides must be exactly equal. If they're not, then the most perfect 45 degree mitres will not fit.
HTH
Frank
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Thanks, everybody.
Curt Blood
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Exactly and just as important. I suggest using a stop for parallel sides to insure exact equal length.
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On 20 Oct 2004 12:15:50 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (CBlood59) wrote:

I have 2 reliable methods.
1) miter sled on the table saw 2)miter trimmer (lion trimmer type)
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Bridger:

3) Disk sander.
UA100
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