Miter joint frame clamp needed


This time around I plan to create miter joints on the corners of my stereo cabinet frame. I will also be creating a frame for a projector screen and I plan to miter that as well. Not sure why since you cant see it, but I got this miter saw so I'll get my wife to bring me a glass of water while the wood is on the saw illustrating how valuable it is ;)
anyway, I am wondering about the clamps. With box frame corners I just clamp horizontally. If I try that with mitered corners the top will squeeze out. I suppose if I had big enough clamps I could but 1 each way, but I imagine that trickery would be too much for me before the glue hardener... What type of *new tool* to I need to support glueing / clamping these corners up? (admitedly if I can do it without a new tool that will work too)
__ Thanks again!
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor man's wisdom [is] despised, and his words are not heard." Ecclesiastes 9:16
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dnoyeB wrote:

Have you got a band clamp? (and this one time, at band camp...)
dave
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David wrote:

No, will that be sufficient to ensure quality joint strength?
--
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dnoyeB wrote:

would hold true if you use ANY clamping method). do a test fit with the clamp and see if you see any gaps. Use a shooting board to correct them if necessary.
Dave
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David wrote:

OK. But I don't have a shooting board and I don't see any for sale. I have an old rusty hand plane but I suppose I need to get the blade sharpened somehow or just buy a new plane. Can I use my Dewalt miter and hope for the best? The frame is not going to be on display. Maybe if I cut some practice cuts to find that perfect 45 setting I can leave the saw in place and just flip the wood for opposite side cuts?
--
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dnoyeB wrote:

I use the LV band clamp with 90 degree corners to assure good joint clamping. If your miter saw is set accurately, you will be good to go.
dave
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David wrote:

make it fit :-).
--
It's turtles, all the way down

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Those mitered corners are not going to be very strong. If you can, reinforce them with bisquits or dowels. Or use screws and plugs.
You can make your own corner braces; cut out 1 corner of a tubafour. Use waxed paper to prevent glue from sticking to them. Use lots of clamps. Practice the assembly before you apply glue. Good luck.
Steve
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GET THEE A MITER SAW FENCE AND SOME STOPS
Work off the INSIDE dimensions for framing.
Cut the initial stock long
Miter one corner of each pair
From the "short side" of the first miter cut measure and mark the INSIDE of the second miter cut, preferably with a marking knife, on the face you'll make the second cut on. That'll be the "underside" relative to the side facing up for the initial miter cut.
With the saw still at the first cut angle, flip the part end for end, with your scribed line towards you so you can align the part such that a "keeper side of the cut" tooth's "keeper side of the cut" is on your line.
Set a stop to the other end of the "keeper" part.
Make the second cut on the first of the pair for frame parts one.
Place the second part of pair one to the stop, cut the first miter, flip the part end for end, registering the first mitered corner end against the stop and make the seccond miter cut. NOTE: the stop must be square to the fence and the sharp outer corner of the first mitered cut has to be against the stop NOT BEHIND IT - EVEN JUST A LITTLE BIT.
Repeat the process for the second pair of frame parts.
NOTE: If the cabinet edges aren't square things get a LOT trickier
Picture framers have a slick tool that uses a "guillotine" (sp?) knife to fine tune the miterer corners (see "Lion Trimmer" or "Potlach") by slicing off see through shavings. Hard to justify that tool purchase unless you plan on doing a LOT of mitered frames.
charlie b
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dnoyeB wrote:

I've used rubber bands on small boxes. Don't know if you could easily find ones large enough for your project. And the miters do need to fit well, but that's true of any clamping method.
--
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It is a difficult one. The very best way I know to clamp mitred frames:
Glue, screw or nail little 45 degree blocks on the outside of the frame near the joints so that you can put a g-cramp directly across the joint and press it properly together.
Does that make sense? If not I will draw it and post it for you on the pictures group.
Tim W
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alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking Subject - The surest way to cramp a mitred frame
Tim W
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dnoyeB wrote:

I band clamp is the way to go, but you do not have to buy one. You can make a simple, but very efficient one with a rope.
Tie a rope tightly around your frame. Cut 8 pieces of timber Place 2 in the centre of each side of the frame between it and the rope. Now by sliding the pieces of timber towards the corners of the frame you will apply tension. Measure for square cnr to cnr on the frame and adjust the blocks individualy to make you frame square. This method was the only one available when I started cabinet making and it works well. Although I have a band clamp I still revert to the rope trick quite often Hope this helps regards John
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John B wrote:

wow, thats ingenious. I could pull that off. I may have a hard time finding the rope. If the band clamp is not that cheap for the size box im making (92" diagonal) then Ill use this technique. Thanks.
--
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wrote:

If you are gluing the mitered frame to your cabinet frame you don't need to worry about the miters. Just clamp the pieces to the cabinet. Once the first one is down you can snug the next up against it.
-Leuf
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dnoyeB wrote:

Looks like my best bet is to use a web clamp which I can get from lowes. Only problem is the frame is about 80"x45" which is about 22' circumference but the web clamp is only 15'. I wonder if I can find some extra webbing at lowes. If I cant Ill use John B's technique. Whats difference between a band clamp and a web clamp?
Second issue will be how to keep such a jumbo frame flat while I clamp it. I don't even have a workbench yet. I suppose I could clamp it in the driveway but im not excited about that technique. My wifes black wooden table has become the defacto bench in the basement. She's slowly starting to notice this, hehe. But this frame is bigger than this table.
maybe one of those old sheets of drywall in the garage 1 step away from the trash will work out?
--
Thank you,



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wrote:

I've used several types of corner clamps but my favorite frame clamp is the type that uses 1/4" all thread with slip nuts and corner brackets. Size is only limited by how long a piece of all thread you can get.
Frank
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dnoyeB wrote:

Spring clamps: <URL:http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/clamps_vises/maestro/m1201_clamp-all.htm?L+coastest+vczq1810ff663466+1143831518
Another option: <URL:http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page 401&cookietest=1>
JES
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