Simple shelf over the stove, left over cut offs from counter tops, CNC
work, he planned on delivering it, or getting close, time in hindsight
wasn't on his side. He shipped it to me on his dime, very generous man.
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
Scroll to the end ... I'm far from being out of the woods on these
curve. Chair legs with two radii of the magnitude are a PITA ..
On Monday, March 4, 2013 6:40:15 PM UTC-6, Swingman wrote:
For a long time, I've liked front porch chairs and rockers. Every opportun
ity I've had, I would speak to old timers about their chair making.
Long ago, one old timer told me how to easily make a double curve on the ba
ckrest support and continuous with/onto the (lower) leg, when creating/desi
gning a chair from scratch. Maybe others had used or knew of this, but it
never occured to me to try it, so I was impressed and have never forgotten.
*A slap in the face of how easy and simple it is. I recall,(I thought I
knew it all) my "educated" ass was taught a good lesson about the common se
nse of such things, that day.
It went something like: "If the upper curve is on 3', then, to make the lo
wer curve with a sharper curve, shorten your same string with a nail, on th
e same sweep." I was trying to understand his French and I don't speak or
understand French very well.
Anchor (focal point) your 3' string and sweep your pencil, at the other end
, to make the upper curve. At the point you want to start making your lowe
r curve, and for it to be graciously continuous with the upper curve/sweep,
put a nail 6" closer to the pencil. As you make your upper sweep mark, th
e string hits the nail and the nail becomes the new focal point. The short
er length/radius continues the sweep, hence making the lower curve a sharpe
r turn. There's an infinite number of different double curves to make by p
ositioning the nail at different distances.
Visiting with old timers is, often, as much a pleasure as woodworking, itse
And, Karl.... your chair is looking good, too!
Looking good there Karl.
I know that you are making some "matching" chairs. To my critical eye, I am
sure I would notice the difference. I suppose that most people would not.
Is that in any way a concern for the clients?
To be clear about this, the reason I would notice the difference is that I
always go under the furniture to see how it was put together. Between
actually building furniture and inspecting it enough, I know my way around
this topic. My wife, who is a quilter, can look at any quilt and tell you
all kinds of details that I would never guess. So, if you have special
knowledge, this kind of thing becomes easy. But most people just don't
notice the details that much.
How well they match. Can somebody look at them and tell the difference
between the mass manufactured version and the hand made in Karl's shop
I find it interesting that you are making a far superior version of the
chair. But they will end up looking alike.
Exactly my point! His is a far superior product. Most people would not
notice the difference. I think I would. Just because I get nosy and stick
my head underneath the wood furniture item to see what it is made of. If
they looked identical, and I just looked under one, I wouldn't notice. But
if I looked at two and saw a difference, I would immediately investigate al
I am also sensitive to colors. And if the finish was just a little off, I
would probably notice it.
I should mention that I knew a guy who worked for a local finish company.
His job was to match a finish with anything that somebody brought through
the door. He was very good. The finishes were tricky and involved. But if
you wanted a match, they would mix it up for you. You would bring in some
scrap and they would put several different mixes onto the wood. A day or
two later, they would have it perfect. Or if you were in a hurry, they
would dry the finish with a hair dryer. I have seen a number of repaired
and replacement furniture with absolutely perfect matches. He had an eye. I
could never do that.
On Wednesday, March 13, 2013 4:22:33 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
s like the factory did, these chairs are far superior to the factory sets.
On a similar note, much of today's upholstered furniture has lots of staple
d butt joints, often with no glue, no dowels, etc. Sometimes there's a thi
n ply piece spanning a butt joint, with only staples attaching the ply.
For anyone, I recommend finding the much better made old furniture and have
it reupholstered. For a woodworker, once the upholsterer removes the old
fabric/padding, you can repair any internal damage/loose joints properly, i
f the upholsterer doesn't repair wood parts (Some don't. They just cover u
p what's there, unless otherwise instructed).
.... Or maybe we could send our broken furniture to Karl and he'll repair i
t, really well, - for free?
On Wed, 13 Mar 2013 13:06:03 -0500, Swingman wrote:
Good deal, they look really nice.
I have made a few chair like objects, one was so uncomfortable that it
couldn't have been used as an electric chair for fear of cruel and unusual
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