I started an earlier thread yesterday with the subject heading : "CLEAR
hardwood finishes? -- moisture cure, etc.".
I now have related question and I decided to post it as a separate topic in
a new thread.
My question is about Minwax Polyshades -- which is a product that has stain
and polyurethane combined into one. The idea is that it can be used in a
one step process for finishing wood instead of having to stain first and
then cover with a polyurethane finish.
Ironically, Pecan Minwax Polyshades is the one thing that I have tried so
far that actually seems to look the best for the floor project that I wrote
about in my other thread.
But, the Minwax website says that Minwax Polyshades is not recommended for
My question is, does anyone know WHY it is not recommended for floors?
I am thinking of just using the Pecan Minwax Polyshades anyway, which looks
pretty good, and then putting a clear polyurethane finish on top. Can
anyone think of a reason why that wouldn't work?
Because it isn't designed for floors, maybe??? :)
Actually, floor varnishes are specifically made much harder than those
for other applications because of the abuse floors take than a buffet
top, for example, doesn't.
Quite a number, actually. :)
The first one being while I like a lot of the Minwax finishes, I think
the polyshades product line sucks and wouldn't use it on a kids'
throwaway craft project, what more anything useful.
For your application, the primary thing I'd worry about would be surface
adhesion of the topcoat long-term that there's no way to test other than
waiting to see if it fails or not. Not a gamble I'd really go for.
Truthfully, what I'd recommend given the length of the thread (which
I've not read at all, btw) would be to hire a professional finisher and
be done with it.
Using a tinted finish is a pretty standard approach, especially in
commercial finishing applications. It has some drawbacks.
1. You really need to minimize overlap because greater thickness
equals greater opacity (darker color).
2. Really (really) hard to do spot repairs. That being said, Poly is
real hard to do spot repairs anyway.
You could make your own tinted finish. Get the best floor poly you can
get and add some liquid transtint. It might take some experimenting to
get the righ color but once you have the formula you are good to go.
Interesting. I've been doing more researching and some people say they have
used it on floors with no problem and others say it's a bad idea. Those who
used it said they put clear polyurethane on top and that protects the
On Sat, 7 Nov 2009 12:54:14 -0500, the infamous "JayB"
Polyshades? RUN AWAY! RUN AWAY! There is absolutely no way in hell
you could ever get a smooth, unmottled application on the entire floor
with that pure, unadulterated crap. Tried it once and didn't like it.
Make a small box out of wood and apply Polyshades to it, inside and
out. Now tell me that you still like the stuff and would consider it
for anything else, ever again.
If you want color, dye the wood with a waterborne dye and apply a
waterborne poly finish over it. (This is the only place you will ever
see me actually suggesting the use of plastic on wood. Disclaimer: I
haven't yet used it on flooring.) You need to keep a wet edge on both
products during installation (or they look like PolyShades)
Bona puts out a very highly esteemed (and extremely expensive)
waterborne poly finish for flooring.
I've used and like Zar oil finishes, so you might try their waterborne
poly floor finish.
McFeely's likes Poly-Ox.
Deft puts out Waterborne Clear Wood Finish.
Best bet: Ask local floor finishers what brand they use and why.
The Smart Person learns from his mistakes.
The Wise Person learns from the mistakes of others.
And then there are all the rest of us...
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