I just got 100bf of rough red and qs-white oak. It is mostly very
straight and I can't wait to see it as beautiful furniture. Only one
board looks bad, it has severe cupping at one end for about 4 ft. It
is about 7" wide and 1 1/8" thick. If I laid it flat on a table the
center is probably 3/8" maybe even 1/2" off the table.
This is what I'm thinking. I can use this board to make some 3/4 x 3/4
sticks I need for the project. If I started jointing one face flat, I
probably wouldn't have enough board left once I got it flat. So I
think I'll rip it in half and start jointing it flat on one face then
plane the other face to 3/4", joint one edge, then rip 3/4" sticks.
I suppose this will change the angle of the grain to the faces but
just by maybe 5-10 degrees at most. This shouldn't be a problem should
it? BTW, this is a red oak piece so I'm not worried about the qs
One more question, would you joint the concave or convex face?
Good thinking, Bill, using the cupped piece for the sticks. Should be no
problem with the small change in face presentation. I'd joint the concave face
first, as it'll lay on the jointer table with greater stability. Unless of
course, you're going at it with a hand plane, then never mind! Tom
firstname.lastname@example.org (Bill Wallace)
Commercial website notwithstanding, take a close look at the quartersawn
diagram and connect the lines. You'll wind up with a series of concentric
squares. The original poster is very close, but it all depends on the size
of the tree, the sawyer's technique, and the thickness and width of the
boards. A very large tree, sliced into narrow thin boards, will yield a
substantial amount of quartersawn wood.
I have read dozens or articles about wood stability and finishing that
talk about quartersawn vs plainsawn. The context always implied the
orientation of the grain relative to the face or the board, NOT the
way the wood was originally sawn.
To be quartersawn, the tree must be cut into quarters and then the wood is
sliced radially (i.e. from the center) from the log. It entails quite a bit
of waste but is much more stable. Riftsawn is when the board is cut into
quarters and then boards are taken from alternating sides.
Sorry, but you're misinformed. Both of these methods are among the methods of
quartersawing wood (there are yet others). The distinction between riftsawn
and quartersawn is in the angle at which the growth rings meet the face of the
board, not in the manner in which the boards were sawn.
See "Fine Woodworking on Wood and How to Dry It" [Taunton Press, 1986, ISBN
0-918804-54-X], pages 50-51, for an excellent description of quartersawn wood
and the different methods of producing it.
"In commercial practice, any board with growth rings 60 degrees to 90 degrees
to the surface is considered quartersawn ... When the growth rings are cut at
an angle too far off the radial, the boards are referred to as riftsawn. The
rings are less than 60 degrees but greater than 30 degrees to the board's
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
I haven't exactly made a secret of that in my posts in this ng, have I?
Let me guess: you're a pedant. And an uninformed one, at that.
standard", it's just a general description: "Boards can be cut from a hardwood
log in two principal directions: tangent to the annual rings (plainsawn or
flatsawn), or radially, across the rings (quartersawn)."
You are apparently unaware that radial sawing is only *one* way of producing
quartersawn lumber. Read the book I cited. Since you snipped the citation,
I'll provide it again: "Fine Woodworking on Wood and How to Dry It." Pages
50-51 describe *four* different ways of quartersawing lumber.
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
I don't exactly hang on your every word so I wouldn't know.
Ooooh, sorry Doug, you lose all your money and you're going to have to sit
the next round out. Now let me guess, you have no practical experience but
rely on others for all your knowledge.
It's the description that the NOFMA uses for their definition of grading.
Radially across the rings would mean coming out from the center meaning the
rings run at 90 degrees to the face of the cut board. Not 60, not 70, but
It's immaterial as your book describes quartersawn as rings from 60-90
degrees. That may be true in some commericial practices but it does not
yield true quartersawn wood. Because the description is wrong, the
different ways of sawing it are not relevent. If you got white oak with the
rings 60 degrees from the face, the meduliary rays would be anywhere from
non-existant to very poor. That may be fine for your work but it's
unacceptable for mine.
You listen to your books and I'll listen to my sawyers.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.