OK, got a dead over-stove GE microwave in park model home. I got m/w trim
stripped away and mounting screws are visilble coming inwardd from
side/overhead cabinets. Problem is, I don't see screw heads in adjacent
cabinets! Looks like approx 1" spaced trim between cabs and stove. Is it
the nightmare I suspect? Do I hafta disassemble cabs to get to screws in
trim spaces? I'm afraid to look! :|
If you've verified that it's not a power/fuse problem, I'd be tempted to
drill screwdriver access holes with a brad point bit trough the walls of
the adjacent cabinets. 3/8" may be big enough, and is small enough to
plug/hide when you're through.
Would it use a system of mating rails (with rails that mount to the
outside of the m/w, and rails that mount to the cabinets)? Then maybe
just a few fasteners would hold it in place once the rails are lined
up and slid together.
It beats ripping your cabinets apart just yet...
On my over stove MW I have two bolts in the cabinet above but the MW
is really supported by a bracket on the back wall. I need to remove a
cover on the MW and pull a release lever. YMMV.
On my GE microwave, it's held in place by 2 screws going downward from
the cabinet above it. The screws are flat headed and are flush with
the shelf surface.
The microwave is held to the wall by a bracket that gets screwed to
the wall. The rear bottom of the microwave then hooks into the bracket
and the entire microwave pivots upward to where the screws from the
top can capture it and hold it tight against the bottom of the shelf.
The microwave is covered in a shroud that precludes putting screws in
from the sides.
I installed a GE a good while ago when I put in my kitchen and thats
exactly how it worked. The M/W died 2 years ago and I put in a Maytag,
(which btw is a POS). The Maytag had the exact same mounting bracket on
the back, I didn't even have to replace the bracket... the screw holes
in the top were different though, so I had to drill new ones.
It helps to have 3 hands but you can get by with just two. The mounting
bracket holds most of the weight, and you can hook the mic on the
bracket and then swing it up with one hand, screw in the screws with the
other. Not too hard if the screw holes line up, can be a bear if they
don't:-) Once installed, you can take it out and put it back about as
fast as you can unscrew 3 screws, 20 seconds with a screw gun. Mine is
not hooked up to an external vent though, so thats something that could
Interestingly, when I ripped out the old kitchen, it had a vent over the
stove, and the vent was hooked up to a bunch of duct work to the
outside, BUT, the cover on the vent that lets the air go outside was in
place, so whomever the asshole was that installed the vent spent a lot
of time on ductwork that was never used... One of those things that make
The Maytag buzzes so loud when running I've been thinking of calling
OSHA to see if ear plugs should have been provided...
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I son't want to discourage you.
But in my last house, replacing the combo microwave - stove vent fan unit
became a classic repair job from hell. It took two days. And even though
the new unit was supposdly an exact replacement for the old one, it wasn't.
I had to strip everything to the outside wall and fashion another vent from
sheet metal. I had to trim the cabinets to make it fit. Etc. etc.
Hopefully, your job will not turn into a nightmare like this one did.
On Fri, 13 Mar 2009 19:22:02 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
...I have to do those things from scratch once-in-awhile...every one
of them is different, if you're going straight up through the attic it
ain't half bad (heh) but woe if you're dealing with a two story
Only attachments are usually the cabinet above and a mounting bracket on the
wall. Try pulling it forward.
Next would be to go to the GE website and see if they have installation
instructions to download. Most do these days.
On Fri, 13 Mar 2009 19:11:25 GMT, the infamous notbob
I've installed several GE microwaves for clients and they usually have
a ledger strip in back and two screws holding the front from the top,
about 1-2" in from the sides and 3" back from the face.
Normal removal is to unplug it, loosen both top screws, pop it loose
(oven grease makes sides stick), then support the front while you
remove the two screws. Tilt it down so there's an inch of gap above
the back and lift it up and forward, off the ledger strip. It's now
A book burrows into your life in a very profound way
because the experience of reading is not passive.
Thats exactly how my GE MW installed. I recently replaced it with a
MayTag MW and the MayTag not only installed the same way, it had the
exact same metal mounting bracket. I didn't even have to replace the
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