http://snickrit.se or very soon diyfurnitureplans.com
In my fathers workshop in the 40ies (myself 13 years old) we handled
both inperial (25.4 mm) and english (27 mm) inches plus naturally
the metric system that was standard for all but the timber and
woodwork industry at that time.
The lumber was measured and sold by english inches in cubic foot, the
workshop workers often spoke of imperial measuremenst, Plans where all
the metric system most in centimeters and millimeter thus an inch was
said to be 2 centimeter and 5.4 millimeter.
Today all is in millimeter.
French got metric at the revolution 1889 The imperial Russia got
metric at the revolution1918 We in Scandinavia got officially metric
sometimes 188? without a revolution why the change was not complete
before sometim e in 60ies.
I recommend to buy a measuring tape marked in both imperial and metric
and slowly go metric.
I used to design business forms. Most typewriters (remember those) and
computer printers were based on the inch systems but used many strange
scales. I ended up having to work with line spacing of 1/8", 1/4", 1/3" and
1/2", character spacing varied from 1/12", 1/10", 1/8", 1/6" and up to
5/32". The biggest problem is that the typesetting equipment all ran on
another scale traditionally used by typesetters and printers, picas and
points. While conversion is not precise, a pica is very close to 1/6" and
there are 12 points to a pica which works out to about 72 points to the
When you work in all these scales for many years it becomes natural to you
and you can convert back and forth in your head easily. I still have
stainless steel rulers in all these spacings and scales, and often use them
when one of them will work better for me. When it works correctly I will
even use metric.
One of the reasons that the old Imperial system is dying is that different
countries used different standards. I learned many years ago that Imperial
measurements are useless in precision work because England, Canada,
Australia and the US all had different lengths of inches. Granted this was
at the 5th or 6th decimal but it was unuseable. Another example is the
gallon. Do you prefer it to liters? But which gallon? In the printing
business we had to mix photo chemicals for our litho camera film. You would
have to check where the Kodak chemicals were made because if they said add
30 ounces of concentrate to a gallon of water, you needed to know which
ounces and which gallon. A US Gallon contains 128 ounces which is 4 quarts
of 32 ounces each, a Canadian Gallon contains 160 ounces which is 4 quarts
of 40 ounces each. Even the ounces were slightly different. In this regard
metric is much easier.
Irrelevant if you've truly converted to metric. Just like learning a
foreign language. When you've truly gotten it, you don't translate in your
head, you *think* in the language in which you're speaking. No different
here. 5.3mm=5.3mm. period.
.65 millimeters = 0.0255905512 inches, approx 1/40
You got a rule accurate to 2.5 one hundredths of an inch?
More importantly, can you use it?
Not doubting your skill, but that is getting ridiculously precise for
Lots of us use calipers that split that into 25 parts.
I can, but generally only use the measuring tools to check the results -
my primary cutting tool is good to +/-0.001, all by itself.
Not really. Imagine gluing up a table top with that much difference
between the heights of adjacent boards...
...or assembling a M&T joint when the tenon was 0.025" oversize and the
mortise was 0.025" undersize.
You have obviousely missed my point, as what you pointed out is not metric.
I wanted to see the rule that indicates your answer, 2.65 mm.
My point is it is easier to measure halves in inperial than in metric.
Regardless of an imperial rule marked in 1/8, 1/16, 1/32, or 1/64 of an
inch, 1/2 is alway easy to see. It is going to be tough to see 2.65 mm
NBD - I have a 24" scale that'll handle the measurement accurately. I'd
mark it with a knife and split the mark with my RAS. If I needed more
than one I'd set a stop - look at the bottom of
for a setup that allows setting multiple stops on the RAS at one time
(handy when there's expectation of doing another run of the same part or
set of parts).
I have rules in the shop that indicate that. Not a problem. But still I
asked about a rule indicating 1/2 of 5.3 mm.
As for the 13 25/64, It is 13 inches plus the "only" mark in between 12/32"
and 13/32", easily marked with a knife. But is there a rule that shows
2.65mm? Better yet, is there a rule that would indicate 5.3 mm let alone
half of that distance?
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