I have heard all the advise in this group about how great Johnson's paste wax
is. It is loved, it is recommended, it is needed, "you need it" "I need it" and
it's getting hard to find these days"... I found it at my local true value for
I used it on plane blades, cap irons, lever caps, soles and sides too. Thoroughly
done coating and polishing.
Now, nothing derogatory is intended here. But I noticed, when a lot of work is
being done my hands get hot and sweaty, when the protected metal is being
handled, the JPW gets gets "tacky" and it gets on my hands, the metal also needs
a new coating of it.
I also noticed that after a plane has been sittng a while on a shelf there
small rust spots, JPW doesn't work too good I think. I suppose a coating needs to
be thin and hard in order not to be obtrusive in any way, and actually work as
Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used and
a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
I've not had all that good luck with the wax either. I use Top Cote or
Boeshield and get much better results. To remove rust, a product called
Top Saver does an incredible job. Made by tablesaw look like new.
I'll second that, although I find WD-40 needs to be re-applied more
frequently. Still, at the end of the day I wouldn't spend more than 10 mins
giving every tool used a quick spray'n'wipe... and I'd wipe down every tool
anyway as part of daily maintenance even if I wasn't using WD-40.
IMHO CRC is a good alternative, although I tend to reserve that for
automotive use. (Wet electrics, etc.)
I should add two things:
1) It dissolves grease so be careful /where/ you use it! On the
flip-side, I've a couple of "squeaky wheels" that can't be regreased.
Cheap tools. [sigh] I liberally apply it *very* regularly then & I'm sure
they've lasted a lot longer than they would've otherwise.
2) I only use it for tools in regular use; "stored" ones need something
longer lasting. Personally I'm happy with light machine oil on infrequently
used tools and a light-weight grease on the rare-use items, but even then
I'll wipe 'em down and give 'em a squirt of WD-40 before use. And a
re-application of oil/grease later, but each to their own. FWIW, I've
inherited a lot of old tools and they're still almost as good as new. Well,
as good as I got 'em, anyway.
'Tis all common sense, really, but that seems to be a rare commodity.
A few tips on using JPW:
Thin coats are better then thick coats, thick coats do not dry properly and
tend to leave holes in the protection. After a thin coat has been applied
and turns cloudy, buff it to a shine, it will dry harder and not be as
subject to getting "tacky" when handled. JPW will evaporate with time to
avoid this multiple then coats can be used to form a thick built up coat.
Common solvents, such used in spray oils, etc. will dissolve JPW even if
they are in the air. Used properly JPW will form a coating that will
protect metal from rust for years. I have been using it for near on to 40
years and have very few problems with it.
I'm not a chemist or anything like that but it does build up to form a thick
coat even when buffed off. Seems that there is only so much solvent in a
gob of wax, when it dries the solvent is gone and the solid particles stay
in place, the next gob put on has the same amount of solvents but is now
dealing with twice as much solids and so on until you get to the point where
a build up starts because not all of the old solids are dissolved. JMO
"> Lot of folks disagree that wax alone can form a "thick coat" if buffed
This, I think, is a valid experience in Houston, Texas. More temperate
climates, such as coastal areas of California, have fewer problems related
Of course, the ground moves, things burn, and you don't want to ask about
house prices. But the tools don't rust so much. Wax is adequate for me.
wondering when the plague of locusts is due...
in most cases, if you're getting wax on your hands, you either put it on too
thick or didn't buff it enough..
I've been using JPW on saw tables, blades, hand saws, etc., etc. for years and
have never had it transfer or get tacky.. YMMV
Please remove splinters before emailing
I shave up paraffin wax & dissolve it in mineral spirits. I keep it in a
spray can I got from harbor fright. (Pressurized with air). I spray
it on and it seems to work for me. Not tacky and doesn't attract dust.
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