Last I checked on their web sites, the nominal manufacturers' exterior
dimensions were still listed in inches...well, let's check again...
Check the thickness. See if it is a real 3/4" or 1/2".
So much is metric that is close. Trimmed down and that is it.
If you have a local ply mill then the buyers might buy from it.
Depends on where the forest they use is. If in South America then
the ply comes from there. Lower cost to ship.
If from a local forest and mill structure - it might be metric or Imperial.
And cutting a 96" board in half won't give you 48" x 48".
On 6/4/2015 7:47 AM, dpb wrote:
Check the manufactuer's website spec's given earlier...they're in
English units, 48x96 at thicknesses 1/32" under the nominal historical
Nobody's claiming you can take a length and remove a kerf thickness and
have the initial total length and my only comment was that US
manufacturers are still using English nominal measurements for at least
construction ply; some furniture/cabinet-grade products are otherwise.
So the 1/2" sheet measures out at a 12mm sheet that has large
dimensions. They don't take 1/32 away from you for nothing.
1/32 of a sheet of 1/2" is a loss of a layer. Loss of material
and the dato blades have to be tuned less than the 1/2" of years ago.
On 6/5/2015 11:38 PM, dpb wrote:
It's not the loss of a layer per se... it's the difference between the
nominal thickness (e.g., 1/2" performance category) and the actual thickness
after sanding (e.g., 15/32"). To confound things there is actual 1/2"
plywood available... There are also performance ratings for structural uses,
e.g., that 15/32" sheet may perform as a 1/2" sheet in structural
applications. I'm not sure that stores like Home Depot that list the actual
dimensions rather than the nominal dimensions help the situation... locally
if I go into a yard that primarily caters to the trades and ask for 1/2"
CDX (I can get fir or pine) they know what I want. Ask the same question in
Home Depot and you may be told they don't have 1/2" CDX (as I have been
though I finally did locate it on my own).
This situation is not different from the nominal and actual sizes of
dimension lumber... as we all know a S4S 2"x4" is never 2"x4" but rather the
actual size is close to 1.5"x3.5" However, the actual size of a nominal
2"x4" is not a sure thing either as surfacing can occur before drying (noted
as S-GRN on the grade stamp) or after drying depending on the source. In
either surfacing case it's close enough for rough framing!
http://www.apawood.org/plywood has lots of information on plywood!
When building base cabinets that are traditionally 24" deep, I minimize
waste (IOW, getting two, correctly grain oriented, end panels for the
cabinet sides out of one 48" width sheet) by cutting the end panels 23
15/16" wide, then cut the dadoes in the FF's to receive the end panels
3/16" deep, instead of 1/4".
That way I end up with an assembled base cabinet that is precisely 24" deep.
Sounds a bit anal, but we often build for spaces that don't yet exist,
so religiously maintaining that type of precision throughout a project
keeps cumulative errors from causing problems during installation.
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