MDF vs. Hardboard

[clare at snyder dot ontario do]

Tennants were just BAD TEMPERED

[Joe]

HDF is usually available from flooring or furniture/cabinet makers. It's more stable than MDF, won't warp as easily, and performs better with fasteners. I use mini toggle clamps on some of my sleds and the hold down screws will rip out of MDF but have held up well with HDF. It's also slicker, having a hard surface instead of the textured particle board feel of unsurfaced MDF. It is however heavier than waxed plywood. Works great for routing and bandsaw templates. Lasts much longer than MDF and much cheaper than plywood.

If you go with plywood, another idea for a slicker surface is dry teflon spray. Use the rest of the can on tools, bikes, weather stripping, etc.. Dry teflon spray, not teflon motorcycle chain lube (contains lithium grease). Works great on the lathe tool rest and tailstock slides. Doesn't pickup sawdust like grease or oil.

[Phisherman]

Should work, keep it dry and it should last. Increase the number of screws to hold it together. I made mine from cabinet-grade ply--showing no signs of wear after 15 years of heavy use.

[Hoosierpopi]

If you can find a Marine outlet, check out their marine "wood" which is a slick plastic "board" that, while it cannot be glued up, does machine easily and is dimensionally stable & slick. It is also stronger than tempered hardboard and MDF.

Another alternative is to check with Home Depot Kitchen Design staff to see if you can get a sink cutout from someone ordering one of those fancy plastic countertops - if you have a Habitat Re-store in your area, check them out for recycled countertops - usually 24" deep and

1/2" thick.

The countert> So...I need to make a cross cut sled and I have made them in the past using

[NoOne N Particular]

You could glue the two rough sides together. Wouldn't be 1/4" anymore but would be smooth both sides.

Wayne