Anyone know of the best clear sealer for particle board?
I have finished cutting all the peices for a drill press table kit I got from Woodsmith store. The main table top peice being
3/4" plywood. This MDF is sealed in a thin white formica coating but the edges (end-flats), I suspect, can become flaky over time of use, wouldn't want it to even start. The MDF was free from my adult ed. class luckily. Any suggestions?Alex
Alex wrote>Anyone know of the best clear sealer for particle board?
Shellac it. Or poly. Or drywall compound and paint. Tom Work at your leisure!
I have a new can of Minwax Spar varnish, do you think that would work? Alex
I've also cut glue with water and it seems to work very well. Not clear though, sort of a milk water color.
Chuck
I have a new can of Minwax Spar varnish, do you think that would work?
Sure, why not? The glue sizing idea seems economical, too. Tom Work at your leisure!
I used a couple of coats of that on my aquarium stand to seal the exposed PB (back) and it seems OK. But it's only been a couple of months. I don't imagine this stuff can be painted over too well though, Shellac is probably a better choice if you want to paint it after.
No, no need to paint it. As with thinning glue for that, why not thin the spar so it soaks in further...?
I tried coating a saw handle with it, it's like really "plasticky" stuff. It has to be sanded between coats and no good, just comes right off. But this may work with thinning.
Alex
But I would need to know how much to thin it. I suppose if it is too thin it will harden too much to go any further, and block out further "soakage".
Alex
Shellac works great. If you're going to recoat with something else, use dewaxed, like Seal Coat.
Barry
Shellac is a good sealer for painting but it doesn't protect against water. If for indoors furniture, shellac is OK but will not protect against water.
Thunder
Thanks Thunder, I'll try the thinned spar urethane idea, so it soaks in. I just don't know how much to thin it so that it remains effective. Alex
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