MDF: Repair or Replace?

I'm looking for the best way to repair the back panel(door) of a game cabin= et because I don't want to have too build another one.

The original one in was made of MDF and the edges of the "lips" have worn d= own near the corners:=20

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'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing this.

Is it something I can build up with Bondo? Or should I try routing it down = far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF *if* I= can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is to cut = a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't seem l= ike it would be strong enough.

Here is an edge view illustration of the "undamaged" dimensions:

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Harris Staten Island, New York.

Reply to
Searcher7
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> I'd appreciate recommendations on the best way to go about repairing > this.

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you could smooth the edge and build a lip with Bondo, sand smooth and paint but it won't have any shear strength. It is so thin that it wouldn't be great even in solid wood. BTW, what you have isn't MDF, it is particle board.

Your best repair would be to cut off the lip plus another 1/2" or so and glue on a piece of wood to replace what you cut off. If you have to have a lip, rout it into the wood either before or after gluing it on. If you need to use screws or nails, pre-drill.

Reply to
dadiOH

because I don't want to have too build another one.

near the corners:

enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF *if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is to cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough.

Is there any reason you can't simply overlay a moulding over the bottom? Even a 1x4 pineywood strip might work. Screw it on from the inside, prime/paint it, and forget it.

-- ...in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work. -- John Ruskin

Reply to
Larry Jaques

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I thought that particle board had courser fibers like this:

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Your best repair would be to cut off the lip plus another 1/2" or so and >

It seems as though you are recommending that I edge glue and add screws into the edge.

I also assume you don't think that face gluing a piece as shown here would work, correct?:

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is, provided there are 3/8" thick sizes available).

Thanks.

Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.

Reply to
Searcher7

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work, correct?:

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Actually, I meant 3/16".

Darren Harris Staten Island,New York.

Reply to
Searcher7

binet because I don't want to have too build another one.

n down near the corners:=20

wn far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF *if=

  • I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is to c= ut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't see= m like it would be strong enough.

It's extremely common on these games. I assume that the wear is due to the = slight movements over the course of over three decades along with the weigh= t of the panel/door all rested on that 3/16" wide lip.=20

That lip fits inside a slot, so the dimensions have to be correct.

Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.

Reply to
Searcher7

RE: Subject

You'll be time and money ahead if you just cut a new back from a

1/2" sheet of MDF.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

cabinet because I don't want to have too build another one.

down near the corners:

far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF *if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is to cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough.

slight movements over the course of over three decades along with the weight of the panel/door all rested on that 3/16" wide lip.

Um, why is the door scraping on the ground, anyway? I guess it's the walking it does when people TILT it, huh?

Is the door inset or something? If the lip is in a slot, why is it scuffed all to hell? Does not compute. Where are the hinges, anyway?

Darren, you'd have better luck asking questions with picture urls linked to the query. We could see how these things sit in their habitats.

-- A human being must have occupation if he or she is not to become a nuisance to the world. -- Dorothy L. Sayers

We need to find -jobs- for our CONgresscritters! -- Larry Jaques

Reply to
Larry Jaques

cabinet because I don't want to have too build another one.

worn down near the corners:=20

down far enough to allow me to face glue in a new piece of 3/8" thick MDF =

*if* I can find that size somewhere? The only other repair option left is t= o cut a piece of MDF to spec and *edge glue* it in place, but that doesn't = seem like it would be strong enough.

he slight movements over the course of over three decades along with the we= ight of the panel/door all rested on that 3/16" wide lip.=20

Here's that pic again:

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is the door upside down leaning against a wall, so you can see that th= e bottom of that panel/door is where the damage is. There are no hinges. Th= e lip is placed in it's slot when it is on the cabinet and that keeps the b= ottom in place. And if you look closely, the top of the panel/door has a lo= ck in the center.

I thought I did.

I just corresponded with other collectors who have the same problem and app= arently if you take these doors off the cabinet and sit them in a corner so= mewhere that lip starts to deteriorate on it's own. I guess it's just the n= ature of the material.(I'm still not positive what material it is).

Thanks.

Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.

Reply to
Searcher7

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