I am building a router table, using 2 3/4" MDF panels for top. I have
enought laminate only for one side. Is it sufficient if I use laminate on
the top surface and seal the bottom with poly? Concern is uneven moisture
absorbtion due to differences in surface finish.
Chris wrote: >I am building a router table, using 2 3/4" MDF panels for top. I
Did the same on my router table, except no poly on the bottom, and it's stayed
remarkably flat for a couple years now. . But I live in the Sonoran desert. I'd
go for it, and seal the sides as well. Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....
Your concern should shift to that of an unbalanced
construction, the real reason you'll have a potato chip for
a router top should you not laminate both sides.
Actually, with a piece so small you can "maybe" get away
with it depending on how well you secure the top to the base
below. It's hard to say though with the limitations of the
if you use poly on the bottom you risk getting some on the edges which will
cause them to swell slightly. To avoid this you might shellac or poly the
mdf before you cut it to size. Also, if you fix anything to the edges to
stop them from swelling, consider how you do it carefully. Any fasteners
that are not properly predrilled may cause the edges to raise up where the
fastener sits. Any glue may cause the same effect. Some of the plastic edge
preparations can also cause the edge to raise.
It'll be fine with or without the poly. The idea behind sandwiched
lamination is that veneers move with changes in humidity. Commercial
laminates are very stable and do not present this problem. Have you ever
seen a kitchen counter with the bottom laminated?
Hope that helps you
Actually the "idea" has to do with balancing the
Not really so. Using contact adhesive with any laminate (we
are talking plastic laminate and not veneer) will creep with
most any product no matter how commercial they are.
On a cheaper installation yes. The reason this isn't quite
as big a problem is that the counter is typically secured at
every cabinet and sometimes in between. The weight of the
cabinets does present itself as something the unbalanced
counter can't over come so it stays relatively flat.
As the old adage goes, "Anything worth doing is worth doing right." I suggest that
you get some more laminate for the bottom and attach it the same way as the top
laminate is attached - if you know. You will have only one time to do it right.
Chris Carruth wrote:
I'd laminate the bottom too. Go to HD or some other place that deals in
laminates for the masses. I suspect you can find a piece someone
ordered and didn't pick up or returned for a song. For the bottom it
doesn't matter what it looks like. I've done this several times.
Hoyt Weathers wrote:
More than likely, it will warp at least a little. Okay for a table, but not
a router table. With the time and effort you have in the router table and
the fact that you want it flat, why take a chance.
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