A woodworking glue--NOT contact cement--with as long an open time as you can get. You want to be able to finick your way around and make sure everything lines up. I'd use Titebond Extend or a reasonable facsimile thereof.
Good luck.
Charlie Self "I think the most un-American thing you can say is, 'You can't say that.'" Garrison Keillor
"AArDvarK" wrote in news:U9dMc.16569$Zr.1430@okepread01:
CDX describes the grade of plywood. CDX has one face side, with many repaired knots & splits, and a back side, X, with essentially whatever happens to come out. In other words, rough construction grade.
What I'm recommending is a method that will get you a perfectly usable bench top, spending less than $40 and a weekend morning's work, plus whatever you were planning on spending with the recycled maple.
I built a bench as my second large woodworking project, with DF undercarriage, and baltic birch cabinet grade ply as the top. It's not an heirloom, but some of the stuff I've built with it since is pretty special to the family and the folks who have received it. When the bench wears out, I'll stop beating on it, and it becomes an assembly bench, or a place to pile tools and junk bench. Or firewood. It is, in other words, a means to an end, and not an end in itself.
Others have their opinions, to which they are certainly welcome. To me, a bench is a large clamping device, and not much more.
CDX is the grade of plywood. One side grade C, the other side grade D, the X is for "cross this off the pretty list." Basically, the crappiest stuff that still qualifies as plywood.
The other concern about plywood,
dogs. I can
It'll probably be awhile, but when it does happen, drill out the holes, tap some dowels into the (now larger) holes, and re-drill your dog holes. I did the same thing in a SPF (Spruce/Pine/Fir) bench with an MDF top.
I can also imagine DF 2x4's will
I can't imagine anywhere in America that poplar would be cheaper than construction-grade lumber, but what do I know? Don't answer that. I would give serious consideration to Jummywood (Southern Yellow Pine). It's only slightly more expensive than white wood and twice as hard and plenny dense for a workbench.
Sorry I meant "cheaper than maple". But that southern yellow pine sounds like the right idea if it is low on knots, maybe that doesn't matter. I saw a chart that says SYP is a very hard and heavy wood. Thanks much for the input on that.
I like it. WOrth it? That's subjective as hell for any tool. I plan to use it for some years, I'm impressed with the construction, find it generally accurate and easy to use, with a couple features I'd change (but I'd like to change one or two features on just about every tool I've ever used), but is it worth the price? Personally, I do all my Sears & J. C. Penney shopping on sales days, so it would then be well worth the price.
Didn't someone say they got an introductory model for under 800 bucks?
But, yeah, it's worth the price.
Charlie Self "I think the most un-American thing you can say is, 'You can't say that.'" Garrison Keillor
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