Maple hardwood floors: WARNED about gaps & buckling

It's a poor workman blames his tools . . .

Reply to
J. Clarke
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Talent.

Reply to
CW

35 year old maple floors in my house - insignificant axpansion/shrinkage issues. I get a squeak or two in the winter if it gets too dry
Reply to
clare

Installed over concrete CAN be an issue.

Reply to
clare

Try not to pass out drunk with your balls hanging in the gutter?

Reply to
Robatoy

This site compares various wood floor species for hardness and stability:

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Reply to
Denis G.

Everything's got to be somewhere.

Reply to
HeyBub

Several houses in my area have 50- 80 yr old maple in kitchens, these houses are top quality, so it can be done.

Reply to
ransley

And I grew up in a house in Montreal that my grandfather built in

1930. My cousin lives there now. Maple floors are as good as ever, & they have been sanded and redone a number of times.

Luigi

Reply to
Luigi Zanasi

If you use the right kind of engineered wood you can refinish it lots of times.

For example here in the UK you can get 21mm thick engineered wood with T&G joints. This can be resanded as many times as solid wood with T&G joints. (eg it's the T&G joint that fails first).

Reply to
Cwatters

snipped-for-privacy@f10g2000vbf.googlegroups.com...

That's nearly an inch thick, so it /must/ be including the plywood depth. How thick is actual maple on it?

Reply to
Thomas G. Marshall

Yes includes the plywood. The top wear layer would be a bit more than 1/4" say 5/16". It varies from make to make. You can also get a 14 or 15mm versions. Same ratio of ply to hardwood applies - eg the wear layer is between a quarter and a third of the overall thickness. Good prefinished engineered oak can sometimes cost more than solid oak.

We installed 200 mm wide, 21mm engineered oak in our house over UFH. Came pre-finished with Osmo Polyx Hardwax oil which is easy to recoat.

Reply to
Cwatters

snipped-for-privacy@r38g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...

Was it microbeveled, or did it allow for smooth butting (without an extra sanding/refinishing)? The beveled look is just not something I like at all.

Reply to
Thomas G. Marshall

Not sure of the difference between beveled or microbeveled.

Basically most of the engineered wood I've seen here in the UK has a small bevel on the long sides and none on the ends. We butted the boards together with no sanding - they were supplied prefinished.

Reply to
Cwatters

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