It's a poor workman blames his tools . . .
It's a poor workman blames his tools . . .
Talent.
35 year old maple floors in my house - insignificant axpansion/shrinkage issues. I get a squeak or two in the winter if it gets too dry
Installed over concrete CAN be an issue.
Try not to pass out drunk with your balls hanging in the gutter?
This site compares various wood floor species for hardness and stability:
Everything's got to be somewhere.
Several houses in my area have 50- 80 yr old maple in kitchens, these houses are top quality, so it can be done.
And I grew up in a house in Montreal that my grandfather built in
1930. My cousin lives there now. Maple floors are as good as ever, & they have been sanded and redone a number of times.Luigi
If you use the right kind of engineered wood you can refinish it lots of times.
For example here in the UK you can get 21mm thick engineered wood with T&G joints. This can be resanded as many times as solid wood with T&G joints. (eg it's the T&G joint that fails first).
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That's nearly an inch thick, so it /must/ be including the plywood depth. How thick is actual maple on it?
Yes includes the plywood. The top wear layer would be a bit more than 1/4" say 5/16". It varies from make to make. You can also get a 14 or 15mm versions. Same ratio of ply to hardwood applies - eg the wear layer is between a quarter and a third of the overall thickness. Good prefinished engineered oak can sometimes cost more than solid oak.
We installed 200 mm wide, 21mm engineered oak in our house over UFH. Came pre-finished with Osmo Polyx Hardwax oil which is easy to recoat.
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Was it microbeveled, or did it allow for smooth butting (without an extra sanding/refinishing)? The beveled look is just not something I like at all.
Not sure of the difference between beveled or microbeveled.
Basically most of the engineered wood I've seen here in the UK has a small bevel on the long sides and none on the ends. We butted the boards together with no sanding - they were supplied prefinished.
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