Maple Hardwood finish - oil- or water-based

[Greg]

Our contract calls for oil-based finish on our newly installed (but unfinished) 600 sq. ft. of maple hardwood flooring (light-colored maple, not dark). What coating? I'm told water-based is more expensive, is more durable, protects against UV rays better, and leaves a more natural-colored finish on maple. Oil-based puts a yellowish finish on the wood, I'm told. Also, I'm told water-based is more difficult to apply.

Anyone have experience with this? Is water-based that much better (or oil-based on maple much worse)? Is it worth it to ask for water-based on maple, and to fork up the difference? Thanks for any help.

[Rumpty]

Typically the water borne product is "Water White" i.e. clear with no yellowing, it has much better qualities, easier and faster to apply, and only costs a bit more a gallon.

[klaatu]

[Rumpty]

out of the house when it's applied for a day or so. The fumes are awful.

Moisture cured poly's contain isocynates, and are toxic to use. DO NOT USE THEM.

[MSH]

Very true. 2 component water based has poly-functional aziridine, highly toxic, known for birth defects.

Moisture cure needs moisture to cure, only works best in high humidity.

M Hamlin

[Greg]

Thanks for the replies. We just went with what was in the original contract - polyurethane oil based.

If this stuff is toxic, is there a real risk in our case - a one time application (3 coats) where the fumes eventually dissipate, and we never use it again?

[Sam Shank]

On jobs that I want to look _really_ good and that I care about (as opposed that I got shafted into doing) I use waterbased MEGA Bonx-X finish. It's dummy proof. No buffing between coats, and no pooling. You could probably pour the stuff on the floor, and come back an hour later to find it perfect. I prefer the satin.

Oil is fine, but it's a PITA. It smells, is hard to clean, etc etc.