Making Square Plugs?


I'm getting ready to finish and arts and crafts style project and it requires that i make up to 100 3/8"x3/8" square plugs (pyramid on top) to simulate through drawpegs on my mortice and tenon joinery. Tried to find something online but all I can find is round screwhole plugs. Anyone have an idea how to produce these fairly rapidly? Links thanks
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I did this for a customer several years back. The piece was embellished with the pyramid shaped pieces.
Mine were larger but you can probably adapt. My pyramids were made 3/4" square.
I cut a piece of wood about 2' long x 3/4" x 3/4". I then used a disk sander to put a pyramid point on to the ends of the piece by applying the wood to the disk and at the desired angle until 1/2 of the end was beveled. I then rotated 90 degrees and repeated until I had a pyramid end. I then cut off each end to the require height and started the procedure over again. I can post pictures if you like.
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Thanks Leon, yes that occured to me as a solution also but the time frame to complete 98 of these little buggers.....doing it that way....arggghhhh thanks gotta be a better way.......

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After you get the hang of it, it does not take long at all. I tried cutting and the results were mixed.
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Theres an step by step article in this months Fine WoodWorking showing how to do it.
Cheers Mike

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Doug wrote:

They are only 3/8 square, use a sharp knife to bevel the tops. Cut or sand, that's about it.
--

dadiOH
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My final thought is a couple of passes with a block plane on some 3/8" stock and then cut on the bandsaw. may be the easiest in the long run...better put on the coffee pot though...... thanks

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Double angle router bits are available. Start with a stick 3/8x3/8xhowever long, two passes across the router, one pass through the mitersaw.

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On 11/07/2006 12:13 PM, Doug wrote:

Have you considered round pegs with a square top (i.e. only the visible part)? You should be able to turn those out pretty quick with a good plug cutter and some creative sawing. Drilling the mounting holes would be easier as well.
../another doug
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"Another Doug"... yes thought of that but can't figure out how to cut the opposite sides to the pyramid...2 facing sides is no problem but how to turn 90 degrees to cut the other...make sense? thanks good idea Doug

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On 11/07/2006 1:14 PM, Doug wrote:

Belt-sander with a tool-rest?
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On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 12:58:47 -0400, Doug Payne

Have you been reading that abominable article in the last FWW ?
Any more like that and the subscription goes! I don't spend $10 a copy to read about chav-tastic tips to dress up chipboard flatpacks.
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On 11/07/2006 2:20 PM, Andy Dingley wrote:

Nope, haven't seen it. I don't subscribe, but I do on very rare occasions buy a copy from the newsstand. What article is that, or should I ask?
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On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 17:08:43 -0400, Doug Payne

Pyramid-headed square pegs, formed on the ends of round pegs so that they're easy to drop into arbitrarily placed drilled holes.
Now I do tend to over-react a little to some issues of artistic purity. Think of it as OCD with chainsaws. I take my view of "Art & Crafts" _very_ seriously. I regard Ruskin as a dangerous compromiser and moderate voice, whilst Gimson was a bourgeois dilettante.
My idea of learning to make "arts and crafts furniture" begins by spending a few years working with timber framers until you understand pegged tenon joints. _Then_ you can think about putting pyramid headed pegs into small carcase furniture.
I don't (and won't) use pegs for decoration alone - they're a structural component of the joint. Quite often the whole piece is unglued anyway, and it really is just the friction of the peg holding things together. So not only do I care how I form the heads, but I care where I place the pegs too. If you see a peg in any of my work, it's holding a joint together. I'd no more use a superfluous peg than I'd use rainforest timber.
My favourite method of making pyramid heads is a short article in the back of FWW some year ago. A short highly skewed chisel with a rounded ball handle. Use it to pare off each face in turn.
My quickest way of making them (usually for the 1/8" blackwood pegs I use to hold trays together) is a low-angle block plane and a custom-made angled shooting board. I bandsaw lots of strip, cut it to double lengths, plane the ends, then separate in the middle. A twist of the fingers between some sandpaper and they're ready to go in the hole.
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On 11/07/2006 8:42 PM, Andy Dingley wrote:

I see.
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Doug wrote:

What about a miter saw set at at 45 degrees? Take a 3/8" square stick a few feet long, 4 chops off the tip to make the faces, then a final chop to cut the end off, then wash rinse repeat?
-Nathan
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Hi,     I have not tried this procedure for your application, but I have made a number of high volume parts.
Cut a number of parallel V's in a board, rotate it 90 degrees and cut more V's. I would use a router in a table for this. This creates your pyramid tops. Then slice them apart. Getting all of the distance right might be a problem, I suggest that you make a number of spacer strips with a width of the plug plus a saw kerf. Then you can offset the board the right amount each cut.
Hope this helps Roger Haar Tucson
It might take a bit of experimentation
Doug wrote:

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Roger, I like it..never even considered the router table! I'll tweak your idea and give it a try thanks

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Tue, Jul 11, 2006, 4:13pm (EDT+4) snipped-for-privacy@telus.net (Doug) doth query: <snip> up to 100 3/8"x3/8" square plugs (pyramid on top) to simulatethrough drawpegs <snip> Anyone have an idea how to produce these fairly rapidly? <snip>
Yeah. The usual way. Pound a square peg into a round hole, cut off excess, trim to shape with a "sharp" chisel.
JOAT Politician \Pol`i*ti"cian\, n. Latin for career criminal
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See the article in the most recent Fine Woodworking magazine

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