You only have to cut 2" deep. Stack and clamp all the length pieces & cut
slots. Do same for width. Precision relationship between slots is not
needed, as long as the pieces are stacked and clamped.
Seems like you would also want a bottom on the box to keep everything
together if you move it. Sounds like you would just arrange the crate on the
bottom, screw on the top, flip, and screw on the bottom.
Are you thinking about running a router bit 2" deep into a slot? A bit
capable of that might cost as much as the BCT gizmo - maybe more. Cutting on
the face of the strips leaves you with the rounded end issue.
I'd use the dado. Simpler.
But you do have a table saw, right? For the dado set?
BCT stuff is very well made, but obscenely expensive.
National Socialism showed what can happen when very ordinary people get
control of a state and the merely opportunistic are regarded as
We used to make waterbed frame pedestals in a factory here in Austin
(Climactic Bedding Enterprises circa 1974) using this method they were
about 11 " high but could easily be made higher.
We would simply dado on the flat using a radial arm saw, the extra
curved notch of the dado's end of cut was hidden by the mating piece
when the pedestal was assembled on site.
Since beds are installed on floors, there was no need for the ends of
the dado cuts to be accurate or squared off. It was an ingeniously
quick, strong and cheap solution for supporting a terrific amount of
weight over a floor
These pedestals were 1/2" particle board, 2 pieces running the length
of the bed, and 3 running the width. It sounds flimsy, but I had one
set up well over 10 years and it never failed. If a bed leaked though,
that's a different story.
On Sun, 19 Sep 2010 06:08:40 -0700 (PDT), " email@example.com"
Yeah, we had a king-sized water bed that used four 'X's made out of particle
board, one in each quadrant. Each side of the 'X' slot cut half way through,
so the pieces interlocked. It didn't look very sturdy but I never had a
problem with the base. The bladders, OTOH...
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