Another post about rectangular vs round router base plates contained a
suggestion that the rectangular approach would also serve as a/the
router table insert. Good idea, thought I. And, adding a router to my
RAS/Miter Saw work table became a new "thought-stage" project.
I've actually done this before, but thought to ask here for ideas on
how to cut the recess for the router plate (should I go the purchase
route and buy a "professional plate/base and how to cut the base plate
should I decide to build my own.
I was thinking of some sort of jig that would allow me to do both (cut
the plate & the recess) so that the one fit precisely into the other.
I have seen articles on the task over the years, but have none
bookmarked at the moment and the pile of woodworking magazines I've
save are too deeply store for ready access.
So, if anyone happens to have a suggestion or a URL that would prove
helpful, please response.
Set of 3/8" and 5/8" bearing collars and a 1/8" straight bit. Attach
the plate to the template stock and rout around it with the smaller
bearing collar. Now you have a reuseable template. Attach the
template to the table surface and using the other bearing collar, rout
the dado (or all the way through if using levelers) to support the
Bob's yer uncle.
Now you have a reuseable template.
Thanks, Your approach offers an added "bonus"
The eight-inch bit seems a bit flimsy. What if I used a larger
diameter bit (I have quarter and half-inch bits)?
template bushing and straight cutting bit combination that nets
¼" (for example, a ¼" bit and a ¾" collar,
As my calc prof used to say, I'll leave the math up to you ;) Do the
math, draw it if necessary. It is a seemingly easy task to do, but
once I tried to do it in my head, I found myself reaching for a piece
of paper. When I was younger, that wouldn't have been necessary ;)
Cut some strips of ply or hardboard about 2-3" wide and 4-6" longer than the
proposed router plate. If the proposed router plate is to be 1/4" use 1/8"
thick ply or hardboard; if the proposed router plate is to be thicker
than1/4" you can use 1/4" ply or hardboard.
A. If you already have a router plate, use it to make a template...
1. Butt two strips of ply/hardboard against the two long sides of plate.
2. Hold those two together by by gluing two more strips on top of them;
they are butted to the plate also
3. Glue filler pieces onto the two long pieces of ply/hardboard; they
need not be the exact length needed, just close enough to fit
4. Flip the template over and glue two filler pieces on top of the short
pieces. You now have a rigid template with half lapped joints.
5. Use the template to cut the router plate recess in the table top.
Stick it to the table top with carpet tape and use a bit with the cutting
diameter equal to the shank diameter guiding the shank on the template.
This will work for any rectilinear router plate, the corners need not be 90
degrees. The plate will be easier to insert in the table recess if you
taper the sides of the template slightly at the bottoms.
B. If you don't have a router plate...
1. Cut one out on a saw and go to A-1. Note: file or sand edges
reasonably smooth first.
- OR -
1. Make a template to the size you want the plate to be plus 1/2"
2. Stick template to plate material with carpet tape and cut out plate
with 1/4" bit with a 1/4" shank. Guide shank on template.
3. To make the cut in the table top you need to offset the bit by 1/2";
use a 3/4" bushing or extend the edges of the template by adding material
that is precisely 1/4" (assuming the router bit you used was precisely
In mid August I completed a router table using Rocklers discontinue aluminum
9X11" router insert plate. You might wanna see pics. I will reduce the sizes and
post one at a time, so to make sure all the pics show up in abpw.
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