I bought a raised panel bit with a back cutter. What is the proper way to
take each each cut. I watched Norm with a normal raised panel bit and he
raises the bit after each pass but with the back cutter you cannot do this.
Should I remove the back cutter and only replace for the last pass? Should I
leave the bit height constant and move the fence after each pass?
I've never done it with a router, but my 3HP shaper easily makes a full cut
with a 5" cutter and back cut.
It seems like a 3HP router could take a full cut with the smaller cutters
they take. I'd like to hear about this form someone who has tried.
On super messy twisted grain hickory, I have to use the slow pulley setup to
get enough torque, but it's still plenty fast and the cuts are still
smooth...Freud panel raiser and Woodline backcutter. There is no noticeable
dulling after a whole kitchen and three bathrooms.
Leave the bit height and there's no need to move the fence.
Clamp a shim ( about 1/2") against the fence. Make a pass.
Replace the shim with a thinner (about 1/4") shim. Male another pass.
For the last shim I use a piece of laminate like formica.
Then I make a final finish pass without a shim.
I get excellent results and I don't have to alter the fence or cutter
On 25 Apr 2006 07:52:22 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
A good idea. I've used it on other items. However, my own setup has
the router table as part of the table saw [no groans please], and it's
dead simple for me to then adjust by moving the fence, rather than
first making the shims then replacing them, clamping and reclamping.
So, it depends on the setup.
only lowering the RPMs but also avoiding burning as well as
splintering and fuzz when doing the end grain. To eliminate
burning you need to feed the stock fairly quickly. With a router,
that often results in bogging the motor down if you try and
cut the whole profile in one pass.
These bits take a bit of trial and error to arrive at the right
combination of bit exposure in front of the fence and bit
height above the table. Moving the fence, unless it can be
accurately positioned for the final pass, will result in
differences in a set of panels. Doesn't take much to notice,
if only at an unconscious level.
Because of the size of the bit, if you make a zero clearance
fence insert for its finaly pass set up, when you move the
fence foreward to make progressive cuts you get a big
gap around the bit in the initial passes. That gap can allow
the leading corner to be pulled behind the fence face,
not good. Same potential problem at the end of the pass.
Head over to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking and look for
"Big Bit Burning and Splintering Solution"
which illustrates making zero clearance auxilliary fences
and a tip to eliminate fuzzies and the need for sanding them
As for using a shaper to cut raised panels - best to have
a power feeder - saves fingers and the need to change
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