If you're using lye to darken it, definitely yes.
If you're just letting nature take its course, I'd guess yes, but I don't
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
Odds of it darkening at the same rate and intensity are not good..just a
It would probably matter which glue was used as well... again.. just a
The PVA would tend to stay lighter than hide-glue... me thinks.
I have seen pva spots show up after a few years...~ahem~... on somebody
else's work.... of course.
I had some success with a small dent and cherry dust and
cyanoacrylate... clean up with acetone.
It is moisture activated, I think 7% will do it. There are accelerators
available, just for wood. It is a part of this cyenoacrylate system:
I think it's water.
A forty year old built-in ash bookcase at my mother's house
has developed a nice patina. Right around the joints there
are blotches of lighter wood. They look to me to be where
glue that oozed out was wiped off with a damp rag.
My guess is that there was some glue residue left in the
pores of the wood and they block either UV light, oxygen
or both better than the finish alone.
Based on that, I'd hazard a guess that glue/cherry dust wood
filler will not darken just like the surrounding cherry.
I suggest using3 lb shellac and wood flour for filler, and
put at least one coat of shellac on the piece as a first
coat when finishing.
then put samples out in the sun for a week. The varnish and glue got very
dark very fast. The shellac darkened sorta like the cherry, so you are
correct that is the right choice.
Why shellac as a first coat? I can do that of course, but wonder about the
BTW. I bit the bullet and ran the edge through the jointer 8 times to blow
by the worst of the defect. I didn't do that originally because I was
afraid of hitting a biscuit; but decided the biscuit would be no worse than
the defect. It is still not perfect, but much better.
1) Since there is shellac in the wood filler going over the whole
piece with shellac provides a uniform effect and base for the next
2) Shellac resists the diffusion of water vapor better than other
finishes. A first coat of shellac helps to stabilize the project.
3) Shellac sticks well and dries on pretty much all wood. Some
woods (Cherry is not one) interfere with the proper curing of oil
finishes varnishes or lacquers. Sealing the surface with shellac
avoids that problem. Shellac also has a reputation for helping to
stop resins from seeping out of softwoods forming blisters under the
finish. Again, not a problem with Cherry. Pretty much all finishes
go well on top of _dewaxed_ shellac so it is nearly universally
appropriate as a first coat. Do you use the 3 lb shellac as
the coat, however, dilute it to 1 or 1 1/2 lbs, much easier to manage.
Shellac's weaknesses are alcohol and liquid water. The former will
lift it, and the later will make milky spots on it. So for a lot
of applications you need to put something else over the top.
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