Making Cabinet Doors with Rail and Stile router bit

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>> :)

I'd like to see a closer look at the panels. They look better than rotary cut ply.

Reply to
-MIKE-
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I've commented before on the sideboard, Karl...I've got plans for something very similar to replace the panels on the one builtin in the dining room here at some point...at that point we'll remove the '80s wainscot paneling and carpet and strip the wide woodwork back and go back to the 1" T&G pine flooring as well...

Reply to
dpb

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> On the safety and tips tab at the bottom, this note in general max

---------------------------------------------------------------------- Looks like Harbor Freight bits would be a couple of steps up in quality compared to these bits.

Looks like they have addressed the MAX RPM issue.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

ASCII and ye shall receive ... scooted my office chair around the corner in the last five minutes and took these with my trusty iPhone, which does NOT do them justice:

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really need to get a good camera, but the damned phone is just too convenient.

(I know, I know ... violated one of your pet peeves by not holding the phone horizontal, but live with it) ;)

Reply to
Swingman

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Yes, that appears to be the stuff I'm talking about. It looks like joined boards... and it matches much better than just about every mass produced raised panel I've ever seen. Take luck out of the equation, and none of them would match.

Tell me about it. The camera on my phone is better quality than any stand-alone camera we've ever bought.

No, no, grandpa. That's for video. Take your stills however you want-- whatever best frames the subject. Most people don't realize that their phones shoot video in 16:9 aspect ratio, HD. Then they get pissed at their phones for taking such a "skinny video." :-)

Reply to
-MIKE-

LMFAO ... but you're right, I am that.

Reply to
Swingman

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>>> On the safety and tips tab at the bottom, this note in general max

Harbor Freight has one of "Warrier" brand. I'm not sure there is a couple of steps of quality between them. %-)

Reply to
Bill

Yes, we have.

Reply to
-MIKE-

I have this set from Infinity (Chamfer 91-504)

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don't think I even chucked them up.

I would sell them for $70 shipped.

Reply to
-MIKE-

I wasn't saying that I wasn't going to use his suggested process because my doors are different sizes, I was saying that I can't make "only a couple or three different sizes" because I have at least 11 very different sizes of openings. The uppers on the left of the sink are all one size - 3 doors, all left hinged with a space between each door. On the right of the sink, there are 2 right hinged doors that are a different width than the 3 on the left.

At a right angle to them is a pair of center opening doors that are a different width again. Then there's the short door above the tall door making up a floor floor to ceiling unit. Then there's a different sized (height and width) single tall door.

Same situation with the base cabinets - 9 doors, 5 different widths, 2 different heights.

That's a fine idea, but just not practical in my case. It's not really custom fitting each door individually, it's just the way the stick built cabinets are laid out. The openings aren't just a "bit off" they're totally different sizes based on the design.

There are a couple of sets of 2 and 3 that match, but there are a number a single sizes also. That's just how it is.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Lame might have been a tad strong, but I said it, and I think it. I'm not a fan of anything Shaker, or Mission for that matter. It all looks like grade school shop class to me.

I rarely see flat panels that I like in doors. Have you seen book matched solid wood raised panel doors? There a million styles, all better than flat ply panel.

I like them, but as you said, it's a matter of taste. I just built a four door four drawer shop cabinet this week that has plywood panel doors, shaker stile... Yuck! Flat plywood panels are quick and dirty imo. I thought a while before going with the plywood, and did it mainly because I had the material on hand, but still had to keep telling myself it's just for a shop.

I've noticed on TV white painted wood is back in style, I still like wood, but admit 40 years ago I liked dark wood, and today like lighter stuff. I doubt I'll ever like plywood flat panels in doors other than laundry or shop, nor shaker stuff, nor mission stuff. Taste differs for sure.

Structurally, plywood panels are the way to go, period. Solid wood raised panels are for looks only. If you prefer the looks of flat plywood panels, you are in luck, they are super simple to make, cheaper and structurally superior to solid wood panels.

Reply to
Jack

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> I don't think I even chucked them up.

Do you happen to have the set-up block also?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

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>>>>> I don't think I even chucked them up.

Yes, included.

Reply to
-MIKE-

...

Indeed...just a few comments/amplification on my style/preferences...

I rarely _do_ use either assuming I have wide-enough stock that I have sufficient length against the fence to have a stable bearing surface throughout the operation. By doing it that way having squared the ends first one isn't:

a) fighting two separate reference planes (the fence and a sled/gauge for dominance in alignment, and

b) taking the time to ensure that if a) the two are square to each other and the material is correctly positioned, etc., ...

It's all in promoting efficiency by dispensing w/ what isn't needed and simplifying the operations to the minimum.

I _may_ use a small block if the stock material is particularly prone to severe splitting, but in general it isn't really needed as the next operation will clean up the edge automagically anyway. And, it's only an issue on the first pass anyway as once the end is coped they're all done. So, unless your stock is just precisely wide enough that you lose a whole piece, you can just make a cleanup pass over the jointer anyway if desired/needed...that's quicker than clamping a piece to the stock or having to handle the two pieces together (or at least it's the way I've become accustomed to working... :) )

W/ a piece as wide as the 8" stock I mentioned previously, I am perfectly comfortable using it freehand against the fence in either direction--coping the ends or sticking the edges. Then again, I've been running a shaper for 40-some years now, and there _is_ a certain learning of technique w/ time... :)

The first freehand shaping against a pattern was, at that time, a pucker-factor experience, indeed, but now it is routine so familiarity does help and having had some instruction from both formal classroom shop as well as some of the older guys w/ the industrial experience along the way certainly didn't hurt.

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Reply to
dpb

I'll need to talk to SWMBO to see if the chamfer profile is OK with her. If so, I'll be in touch.

Thanks!

Reply to
DerbyDad03

On 12/13/2012 12:02 PM, dpb wrote: ...

Unfortunately, that experiment failed miserably...

I _think_ there must surely be an original of it somewhere around here--when Dad redid the old farm house here I came back out one summer (was in VA then) and brought the small 1/2" shaper and did the kitchen cabinets for him. He like that little shaper so well that he bought one after I went back home and did the rest of the bathroom vanities, a large builtin in the living room, etc, etc, etc, ... I'm certain that was still being distributed at that time and he _never_ threw anything away so maybe if I go through the last 50=yr or the 90+ yr of accumulated stuff I'll come across the literature from that one--my original got "borrowed" and I only have this very poor copy left... :(

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Reply to
dpb

Thanks for trying!

This Google Book briefly mentions your method on page 39 right under the picture of the casement window.

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that screwy link doesn't work, go here and click on the first book, Windows & Skylights: The Best of Fine Homebuilding

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Reply to
DerbyDad03

While I'm a bit older than my tools, not much older, and I have all the publications that came with the tools new, including, well, here's a pic of them:

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They are in pretty good shape, really, really good shape considering they've been living with the tools for going on 60 years.

If you need a page or so, I can scan it or take a picture, but don't think I want to scan the entire book.

I don't make stuff with the same enthusiasm as I did in the past, but me and my tools are very old friends, and we fit together like old shoes, very comfortable together. I think you might know what I mean.

These books make me think of better times, much better times. Note the cost of one of them is printed on it at 25 cents...

He like that little shaper so well that he bought one

Reply to
Jack

On 12/18/2012 4:00 PM, Jack wrote: ...

...

Those are even older than mine...they date from the early to mid-70s as beginning of the collection.

I'm not sure what's in the Shaper book; quite possibly the section I'm describing was reprinted from it; I don't know.

The document I have is only about four double-side pages printed on glossy stock and covers specifically windows/doors.

I did do a search thru Dad's drawer of stuff last night and did not find another original or even copy of it. I may make one more attempt on the copy I do have if elder son who does IT support as self-employed comes thru w/ the other scanner we've talked of...that would ease the physical pain significantly and also has better optics and controls than the cheapie I have integral w/ the printer...

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Reply to
dpb

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