Any of you guys ever make and lay flooring? I've got access to a lot of ash
(victims of the Emerald Ash Borer) and can make cants or boards in the woods
with my Alaskan Chainsaw Mill... (Recall the MS 461 I got from Craig's List
back in January). Thus the cost of the raw materials is my time and chainsaw
consumables. The rest is shop work... I'm thinking about doing a random
width floor for my house... say nominal 4, 5 and 6 inch boards. I'm
wondering, however, about nailing it down... will edge nailing 6" floor
boards like the typical strip floor suffice or does it demand face nailing?
BTW, I've been milling boards up to 29" wide with the MS 461 using a
Granberg mill and a 36" bar... Works pretty well and a 29" x 10.5' board is
pretty impressive... two of them covers more square footage than a sheet of
Don't forget that neither the bottom edges nor the tongue edge touch the
adjacent board; i.e, the tongue is less wide than the groove is deep and
there is a bevel below the tongue (and/or on the adjacent plank).
If I was doing more than a little bit of flooring I'd definitely want to
have a power feeder on all of the tools. In commercial applications
virtually everything is automatic and uses custom tooling. In a home shop
there would be the job of ripping, jointing, and planing to thickness
before you even get around to the actual making of flooring. Amana makes a
nice cutter set for the T&G but that is just a small bit of the work involved.
In a factory it is basically a single pass through a machine which does it
all, takes in sawn rough wood in one end and spits out T&G at the other
end. I still don't know how one would go about doing the grooving on the
bottom surface that seems to be a standard fixture on commercial flooring
in a home shop. Many passes through a router table? Stacked round-nose
cutters on the shaper and feed on edge?
On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 1:49:05 PM UTC-5, bnw...
I still don't know how one would go about doing the grooving on the
erf (or more depending on width of the board) maybe 1/8" --> 3/16" deep, ra
ther than plowing out a wide groove...
I've never cut relief cuts and don't know if this is safe.... a few thought
s off the top of my head.
Load 2-3 blades (7 1/4" blades?), spaced apart, on the table saw. ....OR u
se dado blades, spaced apart. Not sure if they could be secured properly.
Also, I suppose there might be a fluting type bit, but profiled for those r
elief cuts, so that more than one "kerf" can be cut, at a time. I have an
fluting bit that cuts three 1/2" flutes, at a time.
Also, I suppose one can grind/profile a set of jointer blades... make the a
ppropriate knotches.... and run the boards through the jointer.... slower t
han normal feed? For 1/8";3/16" deep cuts, 2 passes 1/16;3/32" at a time?
I suppose this is the concept with dedicated moulder machines, as with ma
king mouldings. But wonder if jointer blades are too brittle for this sor
t of milling, that the "teeth" would chip off.
I'm sure in a factory environment it would be... I'm using standing dead
ash that is pretty dry already and I have the materials to create a solar
kiln. I figure that by the time I get all the wood cut that the earliest cut
stuff will be ready for machining.
Pretty much... though being part of a large woodworking club has given me
access to wood as needed over the years. Now I'm simply going to another
level. It makes it possible to grab the odd urban tree that is offered up
that I passed on in the past. It's kind of sad to think of the cherry and
walnut trees I let get cut up into firewood in the past... Taking Game of
Logging chainsaw training opened my eyes to a lot of possibilities. Also,
seeing a video on mounting a winch on an Alaskan mill made the viability of
milling inaccessible large trees realistic... Pushing a chainsaw mill
through a large log is brutal work but I can twirl the winch handle with one
finger due to the gear reduction and get a better result (smoother and more
Not exactly, but I have watched the subject trees grow since they were not
much more than saplings so it's sort of true... ;~) I suppose that there
are a few trees I planted 40+ years ago that could someday end up coming
down under my saw. A maple about 32" DBH and a polar about 14" DBH come to
mind as they have outgrown their places.
Look up Matt Cremona on YouTube. He mills his own lumber too. A short time
back he milled up his own flooring and installed it in a room of his house.
Huge project, very impressive.
Back in the day, a gloat like that on the wreck would
have been followed by a chorus of "you suck!".
Have you succeeded in drying any of those wide boards?
I'd expect them to split longwise as they dry.
The boards were milled from standing dead ash trees and were pretty well
dried already... That said, I did expect the ones with pith to split... but
I'm sawing them down the pith while stickering so I have control over the
split. I'd never use those boards whole anyway... don't look good to me.
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