Making a ZCI for tablesaw

[-MIKE-]

Yeah, especially D. :-)

[Knot Important]

If it is 3/8" the easiest way may be to use a piece of left over click- lock style laminate flooring. I had a piece left over from a project. It was the perfect height for my saw. I trimmed it to fit, dropped it in place and moved the fence over it so it would not raise up, turned the saw on and ran the blade to it's highest level. ShaZammm! The perfect, strong, slick zero clearance insert! Works real good, lasts long time, and it was FREE!

[mjmwallace]

Hmm, thanks for the tip, but I don't have any of that material. All our floors were hardwood, oak. Might be about to use those by the way. Will check it out.

MJ

[Leon]

Well I have acutally done this before about 10 years ago. However I put pretty sizeable gobs down, let the the glue cool thoroughly and then sandded the gobs down to fit. My only warning was to simply think this out before you create a problem.

[Bruce]

On Mon, 19 Jul 2010 20:16:07 -0600, MIKE- wrote (in article ):

/

I used 1/2" oak (Unisaw). 3/8" would have been a bit too thin, The 1/2" needed only a few turns of leveling screws protruding from the bottom to sit flush. I'm using a piece of 1/2" BB ply right now to see if it last longer than the oak (based on some past posts here) and so far so good!

-Bruce

[keithw86]

Wouldn't solid warp? I wouldn't think hardwood would be a good choice in any case.

[Bruce]

On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 15:31:58 -0600, [e-mail] wrote (in article ):

No warpage, but I did have issues with splintering around the blade slot due to the hammering from the teeth over time. This is why I'm hoping the BB ply is more durable (needs to be more springy).