Making a complicated (for me) curve

[Bill]

How about a technique based on turning? Quarter the result for your 4 corners? Too big? I saw your office glueup, you could do it! : )

[Swingman]

Here's a clue for your:

this is one of those that the curved ends are not made from a "single block of wood", and doesn't have the same degree of vertical roundover/curve as the picture of the one you posted, but it is certainly much more doable with many of the methods already described.

[John Grossbohlin]

I'd do the corner by rough cutting it on a bandsaw and then use a pattern with either a router table with a long straight bit, or a shaper with a tall straight cutter to shape the inside and outside of the curve. You can get an idea of how here --

could use a secondary wood like pine or poplar for the sides of the corner and then veneer it. The top could be done on a shaper with a pattern or on a molding machine with a curved molding set up.

From looking at the top edges a stair tread shaper cutter could be used for both the straight and curved sections on a shaper or a similar cutter on a molding machine.

[Larry Jaques]

And, as everyone knows well, anyone who likes shuffleboard has all the time in the world to work on it. Old retired farts, wot?

-- Creativity can solve almost any problem. The creative act, the defeat of habit by originality, overcomes everything. -- George Lois

[Swingman]

original photo Kevin provided, the profile below would fit right in with your above, and also with dadiOH's suggested method.

The bevels for the sides can be cut on the table saw @ +/- 75 degrees, then using 1/2" round over bit for the top and bottom,and the bevel cut waste faired with a sander/belt sander:

curved corners just needs 2 1/4" x 7" stock; joined to the sides _before_ using the 1/2" round over bit (route the top and bottom of the sides and corners at the same time after they're joined for a good transition), and the curve on the outside radius of the corner blocks could probably be faired relatively easy with a sander to match, a la dadiOH'suggestion.

[Swingman]

Meant to add, before joining the corner blocks and sides for either the

1/2" round over/stair tread bit, that the same 75 degree bevel can be cut on the top and bottom outside radius of the corner block on a band saw, with either the table angled, or a jig that will hold the corner block at the same angle.

[Kevin]

your templates and now it's time to for me to get busy!

Kevin

[Swingman]

And John Grossbolin and Gerald Ross ...

Might take a few tweaks, but, with the less radical curve profile, it is certainly something to consider.

When you get it done post some photos. Have fun!

[Swingman]

I don't own a lathe so I don't think along those lines, but I can see how a hollowed "vase", with that profile on the outside radius, and with the same wall thickness as the sides, then "quartered", would probably do it.

Good thought ...

[Robatoy]

A William & Hussy and a set of full-width knives and a arched bed will do this easily but the set-up will be pricy. One could do this in two passes as the W&H is open-sided. At $14K per job one could justify a W&H. (Do they still make them? I go look)

[Robatoy]

In fact they still do make those. Problem solved. (Mmmmm would that make a nice addition to my collection of toys//^^^^tools?

[Swingman]

For a one time run of four corners, and if you have access to a lathe and can turn most of it like a vase and then cut out the bottom with a jig saw, this how your idea would work.

the right equipment (a lathe, and a way to drill out the middle of the blank after it's turned, leaving the correct thickness to match the sides), and were I going to be in the business of doing this on a regular basis, this is probably the way I would end up doing it.

It would be interesting to see if a lathe is used by the company in question.

It's funny, and understandable, at how you tend to look at only those solutions that can be accomplished with the tools you own. I would never had considered this solution without owning a lathe.

Well done, sir! :)

[dadiOH]

> With the right equipment (a lathe, and a way to drill out the middle

I own a lathe and I wouldn't consider it either. Easier to do by hand :)

[Bill]

>> With the right equipment (a lathe, and a way to drill out the middle of

Gosh thanks. And thanks for sharing the SU drawing and the rest of your post too!

[Bill]

>> With the right equipment (a lathe, and a way to drill out the middle of

I'm not sure what I would do if a cross-section had an interior arc. I think I would leave most of the interior solid, so that, after quartering, I could use the TS to maketwo non-through cuts to each "quarter", leaving interior vees of 90 degrees for simple installation. The result would NOT look just like in the "manufacturer's picture, but according to the web site, they "mill" the corners--which I guess implies that they use CNC machinery. Being a Shuffleboard game salesman must be a tough gig these days and I am certainly not adding the project to my list--but doing this was fun! Now a *pool table*, I might contemplate... ; )

[Bill]

I just saw the following "Craps Table" project, and it reminded me of this problem we were discussing:

of the 6 pictures is an interesting one of its plywood-laminated corner