Prometheus (in email@example.com) said:
| My general idea is to make a basic H-frame with the blade on one
| side, and a threaded rod on the other (to adjust the tension with a
| wrench- I know there are some methods that use a cable, but I
You might consider screen door hardware: a center turnbuckle with
(IIRC) 1/8" or 3/16" rods threaded about 1-/1/2" on one end and an eye
on the other for tensioning the blade.
| figured the rod would be a little bit more solid) So as far as I
| can see, I have only two or three things to consider here- first is
| the joinery for that middle crossbar; my inclination is to use a
| loose mortise and tenon joint with a wooden dowel to keep it from
| falling apart when changing the blade. I figure a little bit of
| slack will allow the joint to move when the blade is tensioned (no
| glue in the joint, obviously) The second consideration is a matter
The loose M&T approach is a good one. I don't think the dowels are
needed - and suspect that the saw might be stronger without drilling
for the dowel. The saw should be easy to assemble on a flat surface
and, once assembled and tensioned, doesn't need dowels to stay
together. I think you'll do better by supporting the crosspiece on the
shoulders of the tenon than on a dowel or pin through the tenon.
| of basic design- what I've used in the past is the standard metal
| bow saw, but I've seen that the older saws have a frame that
| extends below the blade on one side. Generally, I'm using the saw
| on logs that are laying on or near the ground, so I'm afraid it
| could get in the way, but if there is a compelling reason to keep
| that extended frame, I'm sure I can work with it (my guess is it
| helps to keep the blade plumb, but I couldn't say for sure) The
| third is whether it's useful to leave a set of handles on the top
| of the saw above the tensioning rod, or if that is simply too high
| and unsteady when you use it. Weight isn't much of an issue, just
I don't think I'd bother with handle below the blade. I'd guess that
it might make starting a cut somewhat easier with really agressive
blades; but if it gets in the way, I'd omit it.
Be nice to yourself and the saw - roll the log onto something that
holds it off the ground for sawing. There isn't any part of a saw that
likes dirt and gravel. Even a foot-long piece of 4x4 can save a lot of
wear and tear.
Weight can have a substantial effect on the /sawyer/, which will
| So, can anyone spot any holes in my plan that I may have missed?
| I'd hate to use the last of my rock maple, and then have to smack
| myself upside the head because I forgot something really important.
| I can always try again, but it's nice to do it right the first
| time. I've also got a good plank of 4/4 ash that I could use, if
| it's a better wood for the job (It has more spring than maple,
Unless you're trying for a masterpiece on the first try, build it out
of whatever you think'll hold up decently - then you can feel more
free to rebuild individual parts for greater ease of use, comfort,
etc. I built my first from pine and ended up doing a fair amount of
sanding to make the handle comfortable.
| To try to anticipate the inevitable requests for more info, the saw
| will be for cross-cutting logs for turning blanks because I don't
| have a chainsaw and can't afford one right now (at least, not one
| worth having). I'm making it, and not buying it because I want a
While there's a certain amount of satisfaction to be had from making
the saw and using it to cut blanks for turning, don't overlook the
possibility of renting a chain saw so that you'll have time and energy
left over for turning. :-)
| If it works out well, I'm considering a frame saw for resawing short
| planks out of some of the trunks I come across (hard to find spalted
| wood at the lumber supplier, after all) so any good links to nice
| rip blades for a hand saw would also be appreciated!
Interesting! Don't forget to post photos to ABPW...
DeSoto, Iowa USA