Make my own Wipe-on Poly?

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Does anyone know what wipe-on poly is? I googled and some say that they use 50:50 poly:mineral spirits as a wipe-on poly. Is that all this stuff is or is there more to it?
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that's all

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That's it....it's that easy.
Good luck Rob
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If I am not mistaken, you can even dump some watco Danish oil in too.
-Dan V.

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On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 04:45:00 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@NOSPAMcomcast.net (Dan Valleskey) wrote:

Why?
Barry
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in message (Dan

That's how I do it and my reason is "I like watco". It gives it a richer finish with the durability of the poly. IHMHO of course. I believe Sam Maloof makes his own blend of oil and poly finish. Haven't tried it yet but I may do it to see how it stands up to mine ;-) SH
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Thanks! I'll give it a shot on some test panels.
Barry
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What ratio of poly:oil:thinner do you use?
(Dan

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50-50
Barry
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Three ingredients mixed 50:50. New math?
in message wrote:

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wrote:

I missed the oil? <G>
I don't use any oil in wiping poly, but plan on giving it a test to see if I'm missing something.
Barry
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Varnish thinned = wiping varnish
Varnish thinned + oil = Danish oil
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Mike G.
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Are you sure Danish oil contains mineral spirits (thinned)? I thought it was just varnish and oil.

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Yes I'm sure.
Varnish itself is made up of oil (preferably tung but these days who knows), a thinner/carrier (mineral spirits or maybe some proprietary brew) and resins (used to be things like rosin or amber but now are man made, read that plastic) all cooked up together.
Wiping varnish is just a varnish that has been thinned enough to make it suitable for wiping but still thick enough to build..
Danish oil is a varnish with a very high oil to resin mix that has been thinned (hence the mineral spirits) enough so it soaks into the wood rather then building.
Those are basic make ups, there are probably other odds and ends added that probably vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.
That help? Take care.
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Thanks. I need to try a danish oil sometime.

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Glad I could help.
A good starting mix and the one generally used is a 1/3 oil, 1/3 varnish 1/3 thinner.
However, by varying the ratio's you can vary the properties of the finish. More thinner means better penetration but more coats to reach a nice luster, also a faster cure, more varnish means more protection, more oil means a faster build to a nice luster but slower cure time, etc.
Don't be afraid to play with the ratio's, there isn't any right one. Feel free to vary and experiment and find one you like.
Just remember a Danish oil finish is not one that is meant to build, it is an oil finish meant to give the close to the wood, feel the grain, finish that provides just a little more protection then straight oil. It is applied the same way as any oil finish is. Wipe on, even flood the surface, let sit, wipe off excess, let cure, repeat as necessary
Add enough coats of the stuff and you will eventually get a build and a surface finish of sorts but it is the long way around the mulberry bush and, with the high oil content, the end product will be relatively soft and low on the protection scale.
Good luck
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wrote:

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It's not really a science for me but I start out with 1/3,1/3/,1/3. Then I usually tune it up to the consistancy I want. If it is too runny, add some poly. If too thick, add some mineral spirits. Make up small amounts (the amount you will use). Shelf life isn't very long I suspect because of the poly. SH
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It works for me whenever I need wiping poly.
Barry
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in message wrote:

they sell wipe on poly and it works ,drys fast too minwax watco and there are others I mix wipe on poly with danish oil and a natural sealer stain and it looks real nice as soon as my pictures come back from walmart I will post some
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