On 24 Mar 2005 15:27:20 -0800, the inscrutable "swinter"
Don't sand, denib. Just take of the rough spots with 320 grit.
I do it dry so it doesn't fill the pores (if any) with sand
grit and bland dust/finish. YMMV
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natural, no stain, and 3 or 4 coats. Be sure to
add a dryer,e.g., Gillespies Japan Dryer, so that
you get faster drying and a harder finish quicker.
Watco is just wipe on, let set, and wipe off.
About as minimal labor as possible. Easy to
repair, just wipe some more on.
If you use darker color Watco oil, it will tend to
muddy the wood, clear, will be better.
When to finish-- You can put on a coat on before
gluing it up, or even before cutting dadoes, but
the last coats should be after the case is completed.
To this point, no one has really addressed the fact that this is
a bookshelf. Here is some information on wood selection and
finish for bookshelves:
Storage furniture, especially shelving, made of wood has traditionally been
popular for reasons of aesthetics, economy, and ease of construction. Harmful
acids and other substances, however, are emitted by wood, wood composites, and
some sealants and adhesives. Although the levels of emissions are highest
initially, in most cases volatiles are present for the life of the materials.
To avoid potential damage to collections, storage furniture made of wood or
wood products should be avoided. If this is not possible and wood must be used,
precautions are necessary. Certain woods and wood composites are more
damaging than others. For example, oak, which has been used extensively for
the storage of library and archival materials, is considered the wood with the
most volatile acidity and should not be used. Also, many wood composites that
are advertised as formaldehyde-free may contain potentially damaging acids or
other aldehydes. Current information should be obtained prior to selecting new
furniture made of wood or a wood product so that the least damaging wood can
be chosen. All wood and wood composites should be tested to determine their
safety for use.
COATINGS FOR WOOD
For wooden storage furniture that is already in use, safeguards should be taken.
All wood should be sealed. It should be noted, though, that no coating or
will completely block the emission of acids and harmful volatiles for prolonged
periods of time, but it can be useful for short-term exposure. Also, some
are better than others at blocking damaging substances. Great care must be taken
in selecting a sealant to make sure that the one chosen forms the most effective
barrier and does not itself emit harmful substances.
The most readily available sealant that is recommended at this time is a
polyurethane. Many kinds of polyurethane are available. Oil-modified
are the most common. However, oil-modified polyurethanes, oil-based paints, and
products that contain oil or alkyd resins should be avoided. Only moisture-borne
polyurethanes are recommended. Unfortunately not all moisture-borne
on the market are safe for use. Also, formulations often change without notice.
For these reasons, the polyurethane selected should be tested prior to use to
guarantee its acceptability. Contact a preservation professional for brand
moisture-borne polyurethanes that are currently being recommended and begin
with these. Because these urethanes do not completely prevent the escape of
volatiles, choosing low-emission wood products is of critical importance.
Paints can also be used to seal wood if the natural appearance of the wood does
have to be retained. Oil-based paints and stains should not be used because of
potentially damaging effects of the acids in the drying oils. Two-part epoxy
form an excellent barrier, but they are difficult to use. Latex and acrylic
form a less effective barrier but are easier to use. All coatings should be
prior to use. Contact a preservation professional for current information before
making a decision. After furniture is sealed it should be allowed to air for
three to four weeks. Because of the toxicity of various components of most
sealants, the sealants should be used with caution and appropriate safety
I think that I might try the Watco danish oil. When I get the wood
I'll buy some and test it out on a scrap piece to see if it's truly the
finish that I want.
Does anyone have any pics of some mahogany finished in just danish oil?
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