low power drilling

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Hole saw and angle drill. One joist at a time.
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On 3/12/2010 1:08 AM, LDosser wrote:

If I understand correctly what he wrote, he doesn't have any access--he has to drill the first joist and then drill the second one through the hole in the first, and so on. The difficulty seems to be the 12 feet of extension--not extension _cord_ but bit extension.
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wrote:

On re-reading, it appears you are correct and I am wrong. I'd pull the plywood!
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wrote:

the plywood and the joists?????..
It took me just over an hour to manufacture the tool and do the job. With no damage to the structure.
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So you posted here for what reason? You were obviously finished the job before most people had a chance to reply.
And now you decide to come back and insult the people you were asking for advice...
Nice way to meet a bunch of kill-files, Clare.
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On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 17:05:40 -0600, Dave Balderstone

moving. I decided on my own that the forstner was the way to go, and it appears I was right..
No one even addressed the question I asked - everyone (well, just about everyone) intimated I was crazy to try and I was better to dismantle the raised floor to do the job. Was NOT going to happen.
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Your Original Post:
[I need to drill through 6 2X8 joists which are accessible only from the one side. They are spaced 2 feet on centers. (need to pull cable across to the center of the floor). The joists are sitting directly on concrete, and the decking is 1 1/2" (you read that right) plywood.]
See anything about plywood Glued to Joists there? See anything about $50/yd Carpet there?
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wrote:

proposition, even without carpet.
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Yeah, right ...
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On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 23:09:39 -0500, the infamous snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca scrawled the following:

Two strips from a piece of 3/4" ply = 1.5" thick ply, about $20 here. Your billdrit cost you more than that.
-- Perhaps the most valuable result of all education is the ability to make yourself do the thing you have to do, when it ought to be done, whether you like it or not; it is the first lesson that ought to be learned; and however early a man's training begins, it is probably the last lesson that he learns thoroughly. -- Thomas H. Huxley
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wrote:

giving 15 inches, more or less, of height.
No, but did you see anything that indicated I was entertaining ANY OTHER solution, other than drilling? I just asked WHICH KIND IF BIT would do the job with the least resistance /power usage since I was pretty well committed to drilling with a 12 foot extention of some sort. (I also didn't ( i think) mention that the 2X8 joists were stacked, giving 15 inches, more or less, of height.)
Anything that jammed up would make it difficult and retrieving a damaged bit or extension would not be an easy chore.
NOBODY addressed that question. 1 1/2" auger bits are not common. They also tend to drill faster, requiring more driving torque. Spade bits I found to be problematic in break-through as they are not self guiding. The forstner IS self guiding and self clearing and it ends up, also requires the lowest drive torque as it shaves the wood off in thin layers, and does not bind - even if the hole comes out tight against, or impinging on the joist or plywood decking.
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On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 23:20:38 -0500, the infamous snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca scrawled the following:

OK, the final question is: Why did you even ask for help?
Sign me "Stunned at his reaction and attitude" <blink, blink, shrug>
-- Perhaps the most valuable result of all education is the ability to make yourself do the thing you have to do, when it ought to be done, whether you like it or not; it is the first lesson that ought to be learned; and however early a man's training begins, it is probably the last lesson that he learns thoroughly. -- Thomas H. Huxley
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On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 09:12:26 -0800, Larry Jaques

I just asked which kind of bit would require the least amount of power, making it the easiest to do the job.
Sorry you don't like my attitude, but I wasn't asking how to do the job. I was just asking what tool to use. It had already been decided for me that the job needed to be done without tearing up the decking, and I can't help it if some people cannot read or grasp the reality of what was written. I though I had explained the setup adequately in clear enough language - I guess, from the replies, I was wrong.
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On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 15:56:16 -0500, the infamous snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca scrawled the following:

Had that been made clear, we wouldn't have replied as we did.

Ah, but you _didn't_ write that part. <shrug>

To avoid having people rethink the problem for you, state your reason for not doing it x, y, and z ways in your initial request. The more info given, the less there is on which to misinterpret or ad-lib.
Glad you got it done.
-- I must study politics and war that my sons may have liberty to study mathematics and philosophy. My sons ought to study mathematics and philosophy, geography, natural history, naval architecture, navigation, commerce, and agriculture, in order to give their children a right to study painting, poetry, music, architecture, statuary, tapestry, and porcelain. -- John Adams
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RE: Subject
Lesson learned.
Wait until snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca has made at least 3 responses to others before considering a post.
Hopefully, but then they will be a complete description of the problem.
Lew
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On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 23:03:49 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"

Yeah, a -lot- more came with each reply, didn't it?
-- No matter how cynical you are, it is impossible to keep up. --Lily Tomlin
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On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 08:48:30 -0700, Larry Jaques

I didn't think I had to lay it ALL out to get the answer to the question I was asking.
I just asked what was the lowest power-absorbing kind of drill bit to use to drill numerous holes in SPF floor joists. I guess I gave TOO MUCH information in my request, which sent everybody off in all sorts of directions OTHER than the power requirements of different drilling methods.
Then I got stuck explaining why the answers I was getting were not the answer to the question I asked.
The answer, from trying it and other observations - A) -The spade bit breaks through unpredictable and may jam, causing high torque to be transmitted through the drive (it took the gearcase off a brand new PorterCable hanner drill, running in straight drilling mode and low gear with ONE catch)
B) - an auger bit in the size I required was not readily available to test
C) a 1/3.4" Forstner bit with 7/16" hex drive was available to be tried, and it had no break-through issues, even when not drilling square because of it's self guiding and basically 360 degree cutting action. . It exhibited very low driving torque requirements as detected at the drill-motor - and did the job just fine.
It did the job on the end of a series of 1.2 inch water pipes threaded together to go in 12 feet.
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On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 14:37:46 -0400, the infamous snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca scrawled the following:

C'mon, Clare. You know us better than that. We're _fixers_, fer cryin' out loud. Too little info just screams to be addended!
-- No matter how cynical you are, it is impossible to keep up. --Lily Tomlin
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On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 01:43:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"

Give the man a medal - HE can read!!!!!
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On 3/11/2010 10:08 PM LDosser spake thus:

So I'll ask you the same question I asked the other fellow who suggested a hole saw: how the hell is this guy supposed to get into that 7-1/2" high space to use it? You must think he's some kind of Houdini.
--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"
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